Great European Cycle Routes. Part I.
Imagine cycling through medieval villages, ancient ruins, dried up river beds and scenic hilltops, once walked by pilgrims centuries ago. In Europe, every turn of the wheel brings you closer to the past—and to breathtaking views you’ll never forget. Here’s the first of four great routes that an any able bodied person could undertake! I did this route in 2004(!) with a good friend Caoimhín Corrigan who was Arts Officer in Carlow at that time.
Via de la Plata
A spectacular 1,000kms walking / cycling route, the Via de la Plata is a lesser known pilgrimage route from Seville in southern Spain to Santiago de Compostela in north west Spain, in the province of Galicia. Also known as the Silver Way, the route was a well trodden trade and historic Roman road of which there are many visible reminders as you push those pedals on your journey north. The route takes in some amazing heritage cities such as Caceres, Merida, Salamanca, Zamora before finishing in Santiago. Begin your journey in Andalucia, home to flamenco, tapas and stunning Moorish architecture. Be prepared for the heat – the route passes through remote areas of Andalucia and Extramadura, land of olive groves, cork oaks, cacti and cotton. Did I mention it is hot?
Much of the route is delightfully off road but there is an easier on road option too. The landscapes are full of contrast as you travel north. In the south , it is mostly flat or gently hills; the land is parched and withers under the scorching hot sun. ‘Pata negra’ – Iberian black pigs doze in large herds in the shade of the holm oak trees on the ‘dehesas’ – farms of a few hectares ranging up to large estates. The Iberian pig does “the montanera” , that is, it lives freely in the pasture during the autumn and winter feeding on acorns. They are a sight to behold.
Giving slightly more concern along this section of the route is the presence of large herds of Spanish fighting bulls (Toro Bravo) – bred for bull fighting and often the route passes through large estates with a strand of barbed wire -(if you are lucky) or no barriers between the path and the grazing bulls! So a bit of common sense is required and be on your guard!
As the route heads north the terrain changes as it climbs higher and opens into the vast area known as the Meseta Central. These are the high plains of Spain, the bread basket where wheat is grown. This can test your resilience as the landscapes are huge, with the sense of never ending flatness. Salamanca comes as a huge relief! A beautiful lively university city well worth stopping over in.
The contrast with the south becomes much more noticeable approaching Galicia with the land turning to 40 shades of green; scenes reminiscent of Ireland. It becomes much more mountainous and lush with lots of forests and river crossings. Ascents are really tough on the approach to Ourense with the path passing through remote valleys. Be prepared for rain! Galicia is on a par with the west of Ireland for rainfall. The villages, such as Laza, are like stepping back in time. It’s not uncommon to see horse drawn ploughs in the small holdings. An untamed landscape, home to wild boar, deer and wolves.
It’s up and down all the way to Santiago from Ourense and so far removed from southern Spain in every context – weather, terrain, farming, language, culture, music and history. By the time you arrive in front of the Cathedral your body will be full aware that you have cycled 1,000 kms and the sense of achievement is amazing. Memories and friendships made. Unbelievable experiences of the diversity of Spanish landscapes, climates and cultures.
Salamanca.
The only was through was barefoot!
Toro Bravo! Only a strand of barbed wire between us!
We met my sister Dearbhla in Salamanca , where she was studying at that time.
It’s a route I often think about doing again as it’s so much quieter and remote than the Camino Francés. A different route entirely and equally impressive.
