There’s more than 60,000 unique Townlands in Ireland, that stretch back to the Middle Ages or before. They remain the basis of rural addresses and provide a sense of identity. No where else in Europe has preserved their place names. Loyalty to the home place is so strong in Ireland, stretching back thousands of years – look at the rivalries between the tiniest of clubs! Most of these names were originally in our native tongue but were transposed into English after the Act of Union. Here’s the names of some of the Townlands I cycled through yesterday:
The Irish version of the names usually provides a clue as to the location – many names will include the likes of ‘Carraig’, Dún’, ‘Rath’ etc.
The Long Way Around
South Carlow is an area of outstanding natural beauty, it doesn’t attract big numbers of tourists but those that do stray in tend to like what they see and return again! I met a surprisingly big family group in Rathanna, probably staying in Osbornes Storehouse. The route I took is mainly in local roads with a few stretches of rough lanes and with plenty of hills – over 850 metres of climbing in 55kms. I must have crossed the disused route of the old railway line from Bagenalstown to Palas East four or five times; there are some beautiful bridges and it’s lovely to see the old station house at Ballyling beautifully refurbished since I last took a photo of it.
An area of outstanding natural beauty, bordered by the River Barrow on the West and the Blackstairs Mountains on the East. There are numerous heritage sites all over south Carlow with many great examples of rock art, which I’ve covered previously. Today was about fresh air and exercise – even if it was assisted…
River at Rosdelllig
I presume this warning is an old sign associated with the railway line. Saw this near Dranagh.
Where three Provinces meet – Galway (Connaught), Offaly (Leinster) and Tipperary (Munster)..
Cycling allows me to drift out of this modern world, to find connections with the past and revel in the beauty of the ordinary. Each time I manage to wind down the beautiful network of bóithríns that form a web across this land I sense adventure behind every bend of the road. Reminders of the past are everywhere; the importance of place and person. As I glided by the ruins of a gable end I spotted a plaque to commemorate Pat Madden, Captain of the Meelick team that represented Galway against Thurles of Tipperary in the first All Ireland Hurling Final, played in Birr on April 1st 1888. The little gems I spot on my bike bring connect me to another time.. the name Madden in these parts goes back a long way..was Pat a descendant of the Maddens who ruled this part of the country in the 1600s and lived nearby in Brackloon Castle – which is still lived in today?
Long gone but not forgotten …Pat Madden, Captain of Galway in the first All Ireland Hurling Final
I passed through this area twice in recent years, once on a boat heading for a choppy Lough Derg (thought we were going to capsize!) and once cycling from Malin Head to Mizen Head. I promised myself I’d come back and explore this hidden, under stated part of Ireland. I wasn’t disappointed. Rivers are among the oldest paths used by man; armies have criss crossed over these crossing points, monks founded monasteries and churches nearby, communities grew up around them. There are reminders of a storied past, be it in churches, castles, bog roads and bóithríns. It’s hard not to follow any semblance of an off road path and today’s cycle finished with a lovely loop around Lusmagh Bog. Early maps of Ireland show tiny Banagher, Clonfert and Meelick (much more significant places in the distant past than now).. and a mile of land planted with soldiers under the Cromwellian Act of Settlement 1652 when the Irish were banished ‘to Hell or to Connaught’…..
The busiest house builders in the country, na préacháin, were out in force; there was a soundtrack overhead of hundreds of crows flying back and forth with twigs to build their lofty nests. All around me was a liquid landscape – the Shannon Callows stretch east and west and are home to many migrating birds including the endangered corncrake. I’d love to have heard one call but I think they only call after dark… on another visit maybe. A mink stuck his long sleek body out of a hedgerow, paused as he saw me approach and was gone in the blinking of my eye.
Cycling along these empty country lanes is miraculous; transporting me to another world with every turn of the pedals, something that cannot be felt in a metal box on four wheels… free to wander, look over a ditch, unworried about traffic. I have become accustomed to knowing what type of vehicle is behind me and how it is being driven, how safe I am, whether I need to pull in off the road. There is an Arabic saying that ‘the soul travels at the speed of a camel’ Biking too is slow travel. It feels so calm and natural.. a perfect union of man and machine…the only sounds are bird song and the turning of the chain ring. And I can’t forget the smells. I could smell the turf burning in the firesides – winter isn’t fully gone yet and there’s plenty of cheap turf in these parts. Cycling is how I best feel the geography of this island, the low-lying midland plains and the mountainous rim of our coastal counties and our central uplands.
Meelick Weir Walkway
St Brendan’s Cathedral, Clonfert12th century Hiberno-Romanesque western doorway12th century Hiberno-Romanesque western doorwaySt Brendans Cathedral, Clonfert
St Brendan the Navigator, known all over the world for the famous medieval saga of The Voyage of St Brendan – on returning from his epic voyages (replicated by the great Tim Severin the 1970s, who proved it was possible that he had crossed the Atlantic before Columbus!) founded a convent in Annaghdown. He later was given the site at Clonfert where he founded his famous monastery. It became a great seat of learning and it’s estimated there were 3,000 monks here in its heyday. The Vikings often raided Clonfert and it was burnt to the ground on three occasions. Gradually Vikings integrated with the native Irish and it is telling that the stonemasons who rebuilt the doorway integrated Viking images of animals in their sculptures.
Clonfert Cathedral GraveyardLining the grave with branches of laurel
I stumbled on a unique burial tradition here in Clonfert, where graves are lined with chicken wire and branches of laurel are woven into the wire to provide a beautiful resting place for the deceased. I was delighted to see this being done while I was being regaled with the true tale of the incredible 9 legged cycle! Anthony Flanagan lost his leg many years ago in a combine harvester accident. He didn’t allow it define him or inhibit him and he undertook a credible charity cycle a couple of years ago along with 4 others. With just ONE LEG he completed a 420km cycle IN 24 HOURS for some local causes. The following year they cycled to Croagh Patrick AND HE CLIMBED IT! I came out of Clonfert graveyard with my head spinning, full of amazement at the spirit of Anthony and his absolute determination to get on with life regardless of the cruel hand he was dealt. I salute him. You can hear the great man himself in this video clip:
Pray for…Rag Tree OfferingsOfferingsSt Brendans Tree
Pilgrimage in Ireland goes back into the depths of time. There was competition between sites of pilgrimage and it was no harm for a location to have an association with a saint or two. Churches often held reliquaries with remains of particular holy men a major attraction. Two saints, Moinnean and Cummins Fadahad had their remains removed from Lann Eli, Offaly (Lynally?) and they were placed in a shrine that was brought to Clonfert but which has long since been lost. A fragment of a shrine though was recently discovered in Clonfert but not enough detail to confirm it was the original shrine holding the remains of the two holy men. Holy Trees were and are still another important place of pilgrimage. Saint Brendan’s tree is located adjacent to the Cathedral and it is covered in offerings, brought by people looking for intercession on behalf of an ill relative or for other reasons. There is a statue of 13th/14th century statue of the Madonna and child in Clonfert Catholic Church which is the focus of a month long pilgrimage in parish of Eyrecourt, Meelick, Clonfert. These ties with places and objects are hundreds of years in existence and showing no sign of a drop off in interest.
St Brendan’s Grave
This is the route Map of the way I went. Part of it incorporates the Hymany Way and the Beara- Breifne Way, both well worth exploring on foot or by bike.
Victoria Lock
Shannon CallowsShannon CallowsShannon Callows
Shannon Callows and Lusmagh
The One Written by Patrick Kavanagh
Green, blue, yellow and red – God is down in the swamps and marshes Sensational as April and almost incred- ible the flowering of our catharsis. A humble scene in a backward place Where no one important ever looked The raving flowers looked up in the face Of the One and the Endless, the Mind that has baulked The profoundest of mortals. A primrose, a violet, A violent wild iris – but mostly anonymous performers Yet an important occasion as the Muse at her toilet Prepared to inform the local farmers That beautiful, beautiful, beautiful God Was breathing His love by a cut-away bog.
The historic quarter of Antequera is a glorious monument to the rich history of Spain and its Christian and Islamic past. it even extends way past those influences with the location near the old town of impressive passage graves – on a scale not too dissimilar to Newgrange at Brú na Bóinne, which I recently cycled around. Most people will visit Cordoba and Granada to explore the magnificent Alhambra and the other stunning Moorish architecture but here has its own attraction. Antequera has so many gems, without the mass tourism that is a perfect place to be paced for a few days of exploration.
Window in the Tower of the Alcazaba
My interest in Antequera was piqued by talk of the largest Dolmen in Europe – a boast we have for our own Browneshill Dolmen just 2 kms out the road. The Dolmens of Antequera are passage tombs more comparable with Newgrange. Like passage tombs in Ireland, they were used for burial purposes. Their construction remains a mystery, being built from large carved rocks, they were obviously created to endure for eternity. The first passage tombs appeared on the Iberian peninsula and in Brittany before the construction of similar passage tombs on the island of Ireland. There are three tombs very close to the centre of Antequera, El Romeral, Menga and Viera. All three are located in a heavy industrialised area which does take away from the natural beauty. All three are really interesting places worthy of visits.
Entrance to El Romeral DolmenDolmen de Menga entranceView from the entrance of Mega, is aligned with Peña de los EnamoradosInside El Romeral Dolmen
Video – Menga Dolmen
About 12kms away is the amazing El Torcal region high above Antequera. Like the Burren in Clare, this is a karst limestone landscape, with a ruggedness full of unique rock formations and natural sculptures. El Torcal, the Dolmens and Peña de los Enamorados were designated a World Heritage Site in 2016. There are two walking routes through El Torcal, the shorter takes about an hour to complete and the longer takes two hours. Delighted to catch glimpses of the Iberian Ibex grazing high up among the rocky outcrops but unfortunately too far away to photograph with my phone. We took the longer route and would loved to have stayed to also complete the shorter version but we had a lift to catch!
El TorcalEl Torcal
Video – a tight squeeze!
The Alcazaba of Antequera is a Moorish fortress that was erected over Roman ruins in the 14th century to counter the Christian advance from the north. The fortress is rectangular in shape, with two towers. Its keep is considered amongst the largest of Al-Andalus – the Muslim ruled area of the Iberian Penisula. It’s a magnificent ruined fort. The Church of Santa Maria La Mayor’s Collegiate Church alongside the Alcazaba was constructed between 1514 and 1550 and was the first Renaissance-style building to be erected in Andalucía. The town is packed full of other old churches scattered all over the old town. The narrow streets and row upon row of white houses give Antequera a really picturesque back drop that you could spend hours wandering around.
Street scene, evening time Antequera
Many streets are connected by steep rows of steps in hilly Antequera
Antequera has a very relaxed atmosphere and a place you feel very welcome and safe. We were particularly taken with the sense of community as we descended, one evening, the winding streets down from the Ermita. It reminded me of photos I’ve seen of Bridewell Lane back in the 1950s – families out on the street, a young woman sowing a dress on her doorstep, elderly grandparents out chatting with neighbours and everyone looking out for each other. It felt good!
Alcazabal
Spain is one of the best countries to cycle in – the roads are safe and there’s lots of off road tracks to take as well. We were delighted to get the opportunity to cycle a section of the Camino Mozárabe back from Cartoaojal to Antequera. A common sight I’ve seen while cycling in Spain are the local village deliveries – be they bread men, or fishmongers. A toot of the horn tells the locals to come out on to the street to buy their fresh anchovies and squid, from a little van just like this:
Peña de los Enamorados – Lovers Rock
Camino Mozárabe route
If you like an active holiday, it’s hard to beat Spain – it has the weather, the roads, the friendly people, good food and so much history. Next time we go here we will book a place in the old town to stay in as we were located a little bit too far out of town and faced a lengthy uphill walk before we started to explore each day! Here’s a You Tube video to give a real flavour of Antequera.
Spent a marvellous few hours on a gorgeous Saturday morning wandering St. Fechin’s Way and around the ancient and historic village of Fore, Co. Westmeath. ‘Ireland’s Ancient Heartlands’ is a patchwork of many incredible sites, that do not feature high on the public radar but are all fascinating places to visit. I’ll be back for more visits and surprises!
The view across Fore Valley
Fore isn’t a place you would normally drive through, you need to seek it out, but it is worth the effort. It must have been a thriving place in the heyday of the early Christian Church. It was a target for Viking raiders and Fore was burnt to the ground on at least a dozen occasions. Fore became a great centre of learning with 300 Monks and 2,000 students – akin to a modern university town! Ireland truly was the land of the Saints and Scholars. Poor Fechin however died from the Yellow Plague in 664.
The graveyard at St. Fechin’s Church.
The Seven Wonders of Fore ar a curious mix of Pagan and Christian beliefs that must have been written by the earliest Travel writers trying to promote the village of Fore!
The Benedictine Abbey was a much later construct in the 13th century, with the first monks being French. It too was plundered often. It’s a striking ruin that you can wander through. I was especially taken by the Dovecote or Columbaria built close by. The Dovecote was built to house pigeons as a source of food and feathers!
Dovecote or Columbaria
St Fechins Walk continues for 4 kms in a beautiful scenic loop along the edge of a wood and there are lots of new trees planted, all sponsored by local families.
The oldest beech tree in the Valley.
Fore is nestled between two beautiful hills, the Ben of Fore to the north east and Carrick Balor (Of the Evil Eye) in the south west. The walk way has lovely display boards about legends and lore. Some of the stories are from the Dúcahs collection that I often refer to.
Looking for some wisdom in the Wisdom seat!
I love these folk tales which we all learned in our youth, hopefully they will continue to be passed down the generations.
The key to the Anchorite can be had from the Seven Wonders Bar, unfortunately I was too early and it wasn’t open.
The tree that will not burn with coins hammered into the trunk!
Long before the Pharaohs founded their incredible tombs in the Valley of the Kings, on the bank of the River Nile, another Valley of the Kings was in existence for thousands of years beforehand along the bank of the River Boyne! I set out today to explore the area on my bike starting at an equally enchanting Passage Tomb roughly 20 kms south east of Newgrange.
FourknocksLozenge markings
‘Fuair Cnoic’ tells you more about the place than the Anglicised version of the name. It translates as ‘Cold Hills’ – it was certainly true today with the temperature just 3.5 degrees; the wind chill made it more like -3.5. The last time I visited Fourknocks was about 25 years ago when the lads were kids and they played an awful trick on me! They locked the entrance door and it was pitch black inside. They were outside on the grassy mound having a great laugh and thought it was a great idea to drop the key in through the tiny vent in the roof of the chamber. I had no way out and the joke backfired on them as they panicked!! It took a bit of searching to locate the key and ensure they had a lift home!
The beauty of Fourknocks is that it is off the beaten track with very few visitors compared to the sites at Newgrange. The Chamber is locked but the key is available from the White Family home about 2kms away. Leave a deposit and you can have a free ramble around an amazing Passage Tomb, one that is actually larger than the Chamber in Newgrange. There are some incredible 5,000 year old carvings above the side chambers which are really well preserved because they are protected from the elements.
I bade farewell to Fourknocks and turned my bike towards Ard Cath and Duleek heading for the Newgrange Visitor Centre. The helpful staff from the OPW directed me to the service entrance which enabled me to access the pedestrian bridge across Ireland’s most fabled stretch of water, the River Boyne, otherwise I would have had a long cycle to get over to the other side. It was here that Finn, son of Cumhal, went to learn poetry from Finegas, a poet that was living at the Boinn, ‘for the poets always thought it was aways on the brink of water poetry was revealed to them’. Finegas was there seven years for it was prophesied that he would eat the Salmon of Knowledge and that he would have all the knowledge after that. Finally he caught it while Finn was there and bade hime to roast it – but not to eat it. When he had cooked it he Brough it to Finegas who asked had he ate any of it. Finn said no but that he had burnt his thumb which blistered and he put his thumb in his mouth. And that was how Finn gained all the knowledge that came from the nuts of the none hazels of wisdom that grow beside the well that is below the sea.. from Gods and Fighting Men. I’ve alway loved the old folklore..
I crossed over the Boyne and headed for Knowth, Dowth and Newgrange knowing that I wouldn’t be able to go inside as I had my bike with me and I wouldn’t leave it unattended. But I wanted to do this cycle in our Valley of Kings for a long time. It’s a beautiful place, best experienced on foot or on the bike and not on the tour buses that ferry visitors to the sites!
Newgrange
The weather took a turn for the worst but the heavy shower failed to dampen the spirits and I enjoyed the atmosphere cycling between the sites and looking down at the Boyne below. It was time to head back and retrace my steps, another good day’s cycle touring completed.
