Rothar Routes

Cycle routes & pilgrim journeys in Ireland and Europe …..

Posts from the ‘South Leinster Cycle Routes’ category

Holiday at Home!

Had a great day on the bike today seeing some of the great scenery in our county and visiting some of our well known and lesser known heritage sites. The intention had been that we would both spend a few days cycling in Carlow but a back injury knocked that on the head for Mary.

Yesterdays rain meant postponing the cycle for a day – what a difference 24 hours can bring!

 

First stop was on the road to Knockbeg at the ruins of Sleatty Church and its unusual High Cross. The ruins are located on the right hand side just after the graveyard on the left.

Sleatty High Cross

St Fiacc is closely associated with Sleatty which was founded in the 5th century. There are two crosses remaining on the site from that time, both are plain crosses. There’s a replica of the larger cross in the grounds of St Patrick’s College.

It’s a short skip across to the better known Killeshin Romanesque Doorway. Built much later than Sleatty, in the 12th century, the doorway is remarkably well preserved and the detail is stunning. The stone carvings are really worth examining closely and there is an inscription that refers to Diarmuid McMourragh King of Leinster – the lad who brought the Normans to Ireland.

Killeshin Romanesque Doorway

Its a steep pull immediately after, heading up towards Rossmore so its always inviting to take another stop at the Waterworks for the lovely view – especially after heavy rain as the water cascades over the steps.

Waterworks Killeshin

The cycle to the top at Rossmore is a tough one. especially near the Waterworks where the gradient is 8 degrees. The view out to your left though over Carlow Town and across to the Wicklow Mountains and Mount Leinster make it easy to ignore the difficult climb. The reward is a stunning view from the top and a great descent to look forward to.

View from Rossmore

It doesn’t take long to hit Ballinabranna and rather than go down to the Barrow at beautiful Milford I went cross country to Old Leighlin. Old Leighlin was home to St Laserian or Molaise. The holy well is a very important link with tradition, one that is alive and well in modern Ireland. It attracts a lot of visitors. It’s a sacred place and there is a story about a famous yew tree that once grew here – one of the five sacred trees in ancient ireland. Sadly it got damaged and was replaced by three yew trees. There is a rag tree here beside the well and cross on which people leave offerings for intercessions.

Molaise’s Well

Rag Tree Offering

Heading back down hill I turned sharp right in the village into St Laserians Cathedral where there are guided tours between 12 noon and 4pm every day. Well worth a visit to this the  smallest Cathedral in Ireland. And one of the most historic, for it was here at a synod of bishops in 632 A.D. that the date for Easter was agreed with the Irish Church. The Church here was destroyed by the Vikings and rebuilt. The building is beautiful and the east window contains beautiful stain glass depictions of St Laserain, St Moling, St Fiacc, St Brigid, St Paul, St John and St Canice. Highly recommend a visit.

St Laserian’s Cathedral

12th Century Baptismal Font

Down into Leighlinbridge and onto my usual haunt of the Barrow Track. Today was a little different as I was delayed by dredging works near Fenniscourt where the drawbridge was up and I could not proceed!

Fenniscourt Drawbridge Up

Thanks to the help of the workmen I wasn’t unduly delayed and made my way south towards Borris. by this stage the sun was beaming and the Barrow was chocolate brown after last night’s heavy rains.

It being the 15th of August, the Borris Fair was in full swing and I headed up into the village to round of a great day’s cycling. Richie Kavanagh wrote a song about the Fair and it provides a great image of the Fair day of old:

On the fifteenth day of August, as everyone is there
They come from miles around to the Borris Fair
There’s all kinds of tinkers, dealers and conmen
And even three card tricks, a game that’s hard to win

It’s there you’ll see the faces of the friends from long ago
Some of them have changed so much, begor you’d hardly know
Ah, when you started talking, the memories, they come back
Of great fairs now in Borris, the dealing and the crack

The imigrants, they come home from far across the sea
Ah, Borris on the fifteenth, that’s the place to be
A great day for the children, ice cream and the like
Me Daddy used to bring me on the bar of the bike
Chorus

If your looking for a jackass, a puckán or a pony
The tinker man, he has them all if you have the money
CD, tapes and videos and loads of bricker-brack
Your sure to get a good deal if you have the dealing knack

Borris Fair Horse

Borris Fair Visitors

Borris Fair Musicians

Borris Fair 15th August 2017

 

Not a bad way to spend a day of the holidays.

 

Here is the route I travelled today.

55kms, 629 metres climbing, 20kms off road.

 

I went down to the River

I went down to the river.
When I want to escape from the hum drum of living I take to the bike and head to the Barrow.
One of the few off road trails in the country, it exists along the narrow corridor of the Barrow between Athy and St. Mullins. A mini wilderness. An oasis of peace and calm, of beauty and wonder, A wildlife refuge. A haven for lovers of quiet and nature. The Irish landscape has been mostly tamed. Cultivated. Farmed. Ordered. There is no wilderness, you are never more than a couple of kilometres from ‘civilisation’.
As a result of former colonial rule, a tentacle of tarmac spreads itself across almost every square kilometre of the surface of Ireland. We have one of the best networks of local roads in Europe. In the counties of Carlow, Kilkenny, Laois, Kildare, Wicklow and Wexford there are 14,000 kms of local roads! 14,000 kms.
The Barrow is the antidote to all of that civilisation.

Yesterday, the brother wanted to celebrate his 60th year by running and cycling 60kms alongside Ireland’s second longest river. Family and friends joined in too to celebrate a landmark birthday in a unique way. To celebrate living.

My role was to park the van in St Mullins and cycle north to Clashganny, meet the gang and cycle back to St Mullins and transport bikes home. It’s a path I know well. Every protruding root and every bend in the river are familiar sights to me at this stage. Yet every time I cycle the Track I see new things and come away feeling blessed. Content. Pleased with myself and proud of the little known beauty of my county.

Yesterday was a particularly busy day along the river. I met big groups of hikers. I met cyclists, canoeists and fishermen. As I wasn’t cycling very far and was in no rush, I decided to hold an impromptu survey with many that I met. And it was very interesting. The Barrow is a long distance walking trail that attracts many hikers to the banks of the Barrow. Experienced walkers. I asked at least 30 people a simple question. Which did they prefer – the grassy surface or a hard surface. All bar two opted for grass. Not only did they opt for it but they were animated about it too. I was surprised at the reaction. Some of the comments were very interesting; two female walkers were sitting having a cuppa tea and a sandwich on the lock gates at Carriglead. They had walked the Waterford Greenway last week and were very uncomfortable doing so as there were so many bikes speeding along. They felt that the Track in so much narrower and so close to water that a hard surface cycle track would be a serious danger for users. It would need be to be 2 metres wider to be used as a safe shared path. Some were annoyed at the characterisation of those who oppose a hard surface as being selfish and unreasonable. All were happy for the trail to be developed but in an environmentally sound manner.

I certainly share those sentiments as you will have gathered from my posts but I have long realised the economic spin off that a property developed Barrow can generate for the local economy. And that should not be dismissed too easily. Many are looking to the success of the Waterford and Western Greenways as models that can apply here. The success of the Greenways has been staggering and its understandable that people will look and say ‘lets develop one here’.
But that is like comparing apples and oranges.
Local knowledge and experience tells us that any hard surface will not last past the first of the annual floods that occur on the Barrow. This is one of the key differences between the aforementioned Greenways and the proposed Blueway. That issue has never been answered satisfactorily – what will happen to the surface after flooding, how will the potholes be repaired and maintained?
The argument in favour of development is purely economic; if we develop and it fails we will be left with an environmental and economic disaster – a potholed surface unsuitable for walking or cycling! The development must be realistic and it must protect the environment. There can be no risks taken.
There are alternatives. If the Western Greenway, the Waterford Greenway and the Westmeath Greenway can all be developed on old disused railway lines wouldn’t it be marvellous if such a disused line existed nearby? Well what do you know, but there is one that runs from Bagenalstown, through Borris, over the viaduct and down to St Mullins, running parallel to the Barrow and the Blackstairs. A stunning route! If it can be done elsewhere it can be done here. And would receive great support. Here are some photos that show the true beauty of the Barrow. Feel free to share!

Pave it or Save it?

Grassy Knoll!

Barrow in Flood

Go with the Flow!

Heron Landing

Rathellin Lock

Barrow Cyclists

Peace

Carlow Rowing Clu custodians of the river in Carlow Town

Barrow Cycle – what’s the problem with what we have?

Barrow Promenade

Clashganny

Near Ballytiglea

Barrow Track Scenes

Grassy Knoll!

Pave it or Save it?

Barrow in Flood

Heron Landing

Go with the Flow!

Peace

Barrow Bliss

Pave it or Save it?

It’s only 30 kms from Goresbridge to Graiguenamangh, return journey, along the banks of the Barrow but it takes a lot longer than expected as there is so much to see!
The river wanders between steep wooded hillsides of ancient oak, ash, scots pine and conifer on its path to the sea.
It seems to have its own micro climate. Lush and green.

And it’s only by walking it or cycling it that one can truly appreciate why there is such controversy about paving this most wonderful natural walkng / cycling route.

My favourite section to cycle, the grassy towpath is smooth underneath apart from the odd disturbance where the roots of trees protrude and progress would be swift if it were not for the constant stopping and starting to marvel at the stunning scenery or to ponder the many historical sites along the way. The hurlers of Mt Leinster Rangers favour this section too for their pre season fitness training!

There are 6 locks on this section of the river – Lower Ballyellin, Ballytiglea, Borris, Ballingrane, Clashganny and Ballykeenan. In times past the lock keepers lived alongside in the adjoining cottages; some are now used as pretty holiday homes. If there are locks there are weirs and the trip southwards is often accompanied to the sound of water cascading over them, the only sound to be heard.
The river is dotted with some massive rocks in this section which are more visible than usual thanks to the dry summer we have had. Elusive herons favour them as isolated perches to rest upon.


Ballytiglea Bridge has five arches and is the access point from Borris to the Track. It is one of the most used access points and you are almost certain to bump in to local fishermen, walkers or swimmers once you pass under the arch. Yesterday I met one lady, who I often meet, that favours a spot about 500 meters south of the bridge for a daily swim.
Borris house is close by but its view is obscured by the dense cover of oak and ash trees on the estate. The ancestral home of the McMurrough Kavanagh clan was established in Brehon times and is still occupied by the Kavanagh family. It is one of the few Irish estates that can trace its history back to the royal families of ancient Ireland. The house and Borris village are worthy of a visit in their own right.


A humped back bridge spans the Mountain River which borders the estate is one of my favourite stopping points; it’s a quiet spot and entertainment today was provided by playful otters and lightning fast kingfishers who are just a blur of blue as they fly past at incredible speed just above the water line.
The last day down here I took a photo or a boat wreck and jokingly referred to Jack Sparrow. Today I sheltered during a rain shower under a canopy of trees closer to Ballingrane Lock where an unfortunate sparrow must have mistaken the reflection in the water as being the sky and crashed in and shuddered to a halt. The poor thing flapped furiously but hadn’t the strength to emerge and quickly drowned and floated away.

 

Island at Ballykeenan Lock

For the second successive trip I came across people camping on the river bank, this time beside the ruin of the lock cottage. A lovely secluded place to pitch tent.
The iconic photograph of the Barrow is taken from above Clashganny Lock and shows the lock, lock house and the weir from above the tree line of the steeply banked sides of the river. Its one of the few spots on any river where a lifeguard is employed doing the summer months such is its popularity with swimmers. It’s a great spot for canoeing too and Charlie Horan’ of Go With The Flow, has really helped promote use of the river and an appreciation of its history and beauty to holidaymakers and day trippers alike.

Have to say i was chuffed to pass two ladies and one of them to call after me ‘ are you the fella wrote the book?! I had to stop and chat and I was delighted with the reaction to ‘Cycling South Leinster, Great Road Routes’.
Shortly after Clash is the only double lock on the Barrow navigation, Ballykeenan. Behind the island at Ballykeenan Lock is a unique historical link with the rivers past. The monks of Duiske Abbey prized the salmon and eel fisheries of the Barrow and they created eel fisheries on the river in the 13th century. They are still visible 800 years later. Worth seeing!
Its a short spin down to Graigue from here and the surface is good and the scenery spectacular.

Eel Fishery Ballykeenan

Graigue is another great village along the river to visit and explore. But I had to retrace my way to Goresbridge and photograph a few more interesting places!

Approaching Graiguenamanagh