Rothar Routes

Cycle routes & pilgrim journeys in Ireland and Europe …..

Posts from the ‘South Leinster Cycle Routes’ category

Did I tell you the one about Elvis Presley?

This morning, I set out on what I thought would be an ordinary Sunday morning cycle, but it turned into a journey through time—a living story that spanned thousands of years and wove together history, legend, and even a touch of rock ‘n’ roll!! My route today started at Rathgall Hillfort, one of Ireland’s most remarkable Bronze Age sites, and ended at Kilquiggan, where the ancestors of none other than Elvis Presley are said to be buried.

The Bronze Age Legacy of Rathgall

I parked up at the small car park in front of Rathgall; a handy place to reach a lot of interesting sights in this part of east Carlow and west Wicklow. The day began atop the windswept Rathgall Hillfort. Standing among the ancient stone ramparts, I couldn’t help but marvel at how 3,000 years ago, this site was bustling with life. The panoramic views stretched across the patchwork fields of Counties Carlow and Wicklow, and I imagined the people who once gathered here for trade, ritual, or defense. It was a humbling start to the journey, and as I pedalled away, I carried a sense of connection to those long-ago lives. Not far away is Moylisha Hill, with its own ancient Wedge Tomb, looking down on Rathgall.

Aghowle Church: Echoes of Early Christian Ireland

The next stop is one of my all time favourite places, Aghowle Church, nestled in serene isolation, at the bottom of a newly tarmaced lane. Take care to close the gates on arriving and leaving. Built around the 6th century, its crumbling walls stand as a testament to Ireland’s early Christian heritage. The heritage sign tells that it was founded by the great St Finnian of Clonard – but of course to us Carlovians, he is Finnian of Myshall – his birthplace. Clonard is where he founded his huge monastery and where he educated the ‘Twelve Apostles of Ireland’ – which included the great Brendan, the Navigator and Colmcille. At one point there were 3,000 students in Clonard – a University campus! The Romanesque doorway seemed to whisper stories of pilgrims and monks who prayed here over a thousand years ago. I had a short wander among the gravestones and spent some time admiring the unusual plain High Cross, with no carvings or markings on it. Most unusual. It was time to hop back onto my bike!The rolling hills of the Wicklow Way awaited, offering spectacular views as I made my way down towards the river.

Park Bridge and the Dying Cow Pub: A Step into the 18th Century

Soon I reached Park Bridge and the lovely Egans pub, which I admired from the saddle as I continued past heading onwards on my loop. The terrain was quite hilly and I was following road sections of the Wicklow Way over towards the famed Dying Cow Pub, 15 kms away its name as quirky as its charm. Legend has it that the pub’s name originated from the quick-witted landlady’s excuse to the authorities when caught serving after hours. She claimed the customers were tending to a dying cow and needed refreshments! It’s well worth a visit – it’s a tiny pub, full of memorabilia; the pub has been here for over 300 years and in the ownership of the Tallon family.

Kilquiggan: The Presley Connection

The final leg of the journey took me in the direction of Clonmore but I skirted left and headed along the side of Seskin Hill and on to Kilquiggan, where I paused by a quiet graveyard said to hold the remains of Elvis Presley’s Irish ancestors. It’s hard to reconcile the glitzy image of the King of Rock ‘n’ Roll with this peaceful corner of Wicklow, but perhaps that’s the magic of it. As I stood there, the connection between past and present felt palpable. From the Bronze Age inhabitants of Rathgall to the early Christians at Aghowle, the 18th-century revellers at the Dying Cow, and finally, the 20th-century legacy of Elvis, it felt as though history was a living, breathing thing. There’s a QR code on a sign at the entrance to the graveyard, which gives a detailed account of the Presley connection. Nearby Hacketstown also claims to be the birthplace of the Presley ancestors and there is also a connection with Stranakelly, where the Dying Cow is located. There are court reports from the 1870s of a savage beating William Presley received on land he rented in Hacketstown, possibly by the ‘Whiteboys’, a secret agrarian society which defended tenant farmers land rights… I don’t think Elvis was singing the ‘Green Green Grass of Home’ in honour of the old sod!

A Journey Through Time

The cycle home was mostly downhill, a welcome relief after the stiff enough climbs that had taken me across this historic route. As the sun peeped out fleetingly in the sky, I replayed the day in my mind, grateful for the stories embedded in the landscape. Who would have thought that a simple cycle could take me from 3000 BCE to the roots of one of the most iconic figures of modern music? There’s some iconic pubs on this route – Byrnes of Crablane, Egans of Park Bridge and The Dying Cow, all lovely places to visit if you are in the area!

Did I tell you the one about Elvis Presley? Turns out, his story isn’t just in Memphis; it’s written into the hills and valleys of Wicklow and Carlow, too.

It’s the Simple Things..

Sunday morning cycles are one of life’s great pleasures! It’s nice to get up on the bike and head out along the traffic free by roads, listening to birdsong, admiring nature and ending up in little places that I would never see while in the car.

Ballyadams Graveyard and Holy Wells

The plan this morning was to take the train to Kildare and head for the Grand Canal to try out the Greenway but when I arrived at the station there was a huge queue of people out into the car park. I gave it a miss! Instead I took the Sleaty Road and headed out past Barrowhouse, into Athy and hooked up with the Towpath as far as Castlemitchell.

The Barrow has been very high over the past while but it has receded now and you can see the River Griese as it enters under this bridge on the towpath before Maganey.

Athy has a strong sense of identity with the Barrow Line of the Grand Canal and it had a daily connection with Dublin back in the late 1800s; a fly boat service left the Capital at 7am and arrived in Athy at 5pm! A long day for such a relatively short journey! There was a fall out between the Barrow Navigation Company and the Grand Canal Company over the high rates being charged and eventually the Barrow Navigation was taken over by the Grand Canal Company.

I continued north as far as Milltown Bridge and then took to the road past Castle Mitchell GAA Club and headed over past Ballintubbert House and on to Ballyadams. I spotted an old Church ruin and Holy Wells on my ordnance survey map and took a little laneway down to see if they were still there. The old graveyard is well maintained and there’s a small Church ruin with a memorial erected in 1631 in memory of a Robert Bowen and his wife Alice Harpole (Shrule Castle?), decorated with a coat of arms.

I wasn’t confident that there would be any sign of the Holy Wells as they were located on the map in a wooded area, long since gone. But credit to the farmer, who obviously reclaimed the land, but he didn’t plough the wells out of it! Guardians of our past. I spotted two tiny figurines on a little hillock and I got in over the gate to have a closer look. Sure enough, they mark the spot of the wells! Delighted that they were still there and the traditions maintained. There’s a metal plate over the well but it’s still there!

I was on the home leg of the morning cycle now and popped in through Ballylinan and closer to home. A nice 60kms spin on a beautiful mild morning.

Rathnageeragh NS

I got a lovely message way back in 2014 from Edmond Spruhan, formerly of Naomh Eoin, who had emigrated to Boston wishing me well as the new Carlow Football Manager and also wishing Pat English every success with the hurlers. It meant an awful lot to me and I never forgot it.

Leo McGough filled me in on his playing career – what an encyclopaedia of all things GAA! Ed was a great character with the county under age teams, he was goalkeeper on the 2002 minor team that beat Laois and drew with Dublin in the championship proper before losing to Dublin by a point in a play-off. That team later won that years All-Ireland minor B. They had lost the final the year before when Edmond was full forward. He played for five years with the county U-21s, winning 3 Leinster Specials, beaten in two All-Ireland finals. He hurled with the county seniors in 2003 and 2005, his 03 debut v Longford at full forward scoring 1-1 in a Dr Cullen Park NHL game but by the last game of the league he was in goal and in the championship was No 1 in the win over Meath in Navan and the losses to Laois and Kerry (in the All-Ireland qualifiers). In 05 he played four more games in goal, won a Kehoe Cup medal. In 2005 too he won his biggest honour of all, a Carlow SHC medal as Naomh Eoin goalkeeper, Myshall’s last title. It’s sad that Naomh Eoin have been in the wilderness ever since; it would do wonders for the game to see them back competing on County Final day.

On my bike rambles back in 2017, I travelled the back roads around Myshall, along what I dubbed ‘The Hidden Sky Road”. You might have noticed the signposts marking that cycle route from Borris to Myshall via Tomduff Cross and looping back around through Garryhill.

I took some photos of the derelict Rathnageeragh Schoolhouse in 2017.

Rathnageeragh Schoolhouse
Rathnageeragh Schoolhouse
Rathnageeragh Schoolhouse B&W

I was struck by the beauty of this old ruin and its location on the side of the mountain. It looked bleak the day I was there but the setting was idyllic, with a view back down towards Rathnageeragh Castle from the gate. I couldn’t but wonder on how many local children got their first education here and how their lives were improved by their learning. There’s a great bit of history on it on the parish website:

It was built by local funds in 1883 and by 1896 it had 96 pupils!! It continued to provide education in the locality until it closed in 1967.

Ed was recently in touch asking me if I still had the photos I had taken back in 2017 as he explained that he had begun restoring the school 3 years ago. Nothing would do me but to get the bike out and head back down to have a gander. A strong cold wind was blowing up from the south as I headed out through Kellistown, Rathoe, Ballon and over by Taylor’s Cross. The morning had started bright and sunny but by the time I passed through Ballon, a few drops began to fall. Thankfully it held off and I eventually got to Rathangeeragh after about 90 minutes.

The almost fully restored Rathnageeragh School! Isn’t it class?

Cycle to Rathnageeragh

Rathnageeragh Castle ruins

Didn’t expect to see this sign for Graiguecullen in Shangarry!

Golden Con

Grangecon on an autumn day and the approach roads bounding local stud farms are full of golden coloured beech trees and hedges. It’s a beautifully situated historic village in West Wicklow, just 3kms from the border with County Kildare. Horsey country. That was my destination today, a lovely mild autumn day, if a little bit drab with a great mantle of a grey sky overhead. Little wind, perfect for the bike.

It’s a common theme on my blog, but the local roads of this country as just so good for cycling, so good that there is little need to be spending millions on soulless Greenways! In the 60 kms I covered today it would be an exaggeration to say that I met 20 cars along this beautiful rural route across the three counties of Carlow, Kildare and Laois. What I did see though were lots of beautiful sights, stunning scenery, roads cocooned under towering golden beech trees, old church ruins, castles and one tiny little gem that I was delighted to spot as I passed by. More of that later.

Never take a main road when there is a minor road to take you to your destination. I often cycle out by Knocknagee Cross and around by Newtownallen. It’s a good way to approach historic Castledermot and head towards Froughan Hill, as my father called it, but named on Ordnance Survey maps as Corballis Hill. The road along side Froughan Hill over by Sheriff Hill is a joy to cycle on, a sweeping hill that’s lovely to freewheel down and then to pick up another quiet back road that brought me over to Grange Con.

I’ve heard much talk of the Grangecon Kitchen and thought I’d like to visit it. I knew it was trendy when I saw the fancy little Mini Coopers parked up outside and a queue waiting to get in to the Teepee in the garden! There are great reports about its delicious cakes and brunches but I didn’t fancy getting cold so I didn’t get in line and just had a quick run around this picturesque village before heading back for home. That will be a treat for another day when Mary is with me.

It wasn’t long until Jessica Harrington’s gallops came into view and when I got back to the junction at Killelan Church I diverted from my return route and took a bóithrín that brought me down by Bolton Abbey, the beloved Cistercian Abbey now consisting of seven monks. I popped in for a quiet prayer before I headed in the direction of Moone High Cross Inn.

I traversed Bolton Hill and down onto the now very quiet old Dublin Road before taking the slip road by the famous Moone High Cross Inn.

Back on familiar territory now and my route home took me by historic Kilkea Castle, always a lovely place to cycle through and where the red carpet was being rolled out, but not for me!

I was on the home stretch now and was in for a pleasant surprise along stretch of road that I’m very familiar with. Just after crossing over at Sill’s Cross roads is a farm house on the right, named ‘Kilkea House’. I’ve passed it hundreds of times but today for the first time a small understated name plaque caught my eye and it caused me to turn back and have a look at it again. Yes it said ‘Kilkea House’ and underneath was a depiction of three penguins. Immediately I guessed there had to be an association with the famous Antarctic explorer, Ernest Shackleton.

My hunch was right and I looked it up when I got home I googled it (the internet can be great at times!). It was indeed the birthplace of the great explorer Ernest Shackleton!

A light mist started to fall and I was glad to be on the home run at this stage. Just before Oak Park I spotted this beautiful sight, purple flowers as far as the eye could see.

All in all a great spin, plenty of exercise fresh air, interesting sights and locals history. Just perfect before heading to Newbridge for the mouthwatering clash of Naas and Cuala in the Leinster Club SFC First Round game. Kildare GAA have done a fantastic job with Conleth Park.

A Pet Day and a Grand Cycle

What a beautiful late August day; one of the few fine days we have had this year. A day for the bike and I headed for the hilly back roads above Old Leighlin, passing out through lovely Milford and Tomard and up by Seskin to the top of the Ridge.

To Muckalee

The back roads are best, so little traffic, apart from the busy farmers working flat out in this fine weather to save crops and keep us all fed!.

When I got into Muckalee I was pleasantly surprised to see a little coffee shop in the Community Centre. It’s a community initiative and they’ve done a fabulous job providing a great facility for visitors and locals. I sat down outside to have a snack and three cars pulled up, all lost and all asking me where was the hurling field! Sure I had to go down then to have a peep at what was happening.

Muckalee St Martins have a fine facility and it was hosting a Kilkenny IHL game between Danesfort and Lisdowney, which attracted a decent crowd. It was a lovely family atmosphere, kids all arriving with their hurls, cash at the gate and a lovely glossy programme for €2 for spectators. Because I was on the bike, they let me in for a little stay and it was great to see the wizard himself, Richie Hogan togged out for Danesfort. Wasn’t a good day for them however as Lisdowney won 3-13 to 0-14.

With miles to go before home, I had to head back the road I came but took a short cut up hill over by Coolcullen and rejoined the Ridge above Old Leighlin and Ballinabranna for the return journey home. Nice to see a few llamas up win the hill with Mount Leinster in the background, not quite the Andes but very picturesque!

Traffic Jam..
Backroads are best!