Family, Forests, Freiburg…
Sometimes journeys are less about ticking places off a list and more about people and reconnections. A recent trip to southern Germany with my brother Dermot was one of those. It was my first time visiting my uncle and cousins there – a long overdue trip prompted by the wish to see our uncle John, my father’s youngest sibling, and also to visit our two cousins, Sineád, Fiona and Ingrid, their Mam.
It’s a visit Dermot has completed on a good number of occasions and he has kept alive the links between our German-Irish relatives and home. A journey that I am so glad to have made and to see John burst into heart warming laughs and smiles reaffirmed the importance of family and keeping in touch.
From the moment we landed in Zurich, the efficiency of Central Europe became immediately apparent, The rail connection from the airport is seamless. Within minutes of leaving arrivals we were on a train gliding north through immaculate countryside towards Germany. My experience of airport transfers has always been hassle, involving buses, queues and confusion; the integration in Zurich Airport with the rail network felt almost futuristic.
Our destination for the first 4 days was Freiburg im Breisgau, nestled on the edge of the Black Forest region – so vivid in my memory of school geography classes. Luckily we made an enquiry in the train station about our connection – Dermot had mistakenly booked us on the train to Freiburg in Switzerland! Thankfully we arrived in the right Freiburg. Few towns manage to combine beauty, history, environmental awareness and liveability so naturally. Freiburg does it effortlessly.
The city escaped the worst destruction of the Second World War compared to many other German cities and the old city retains a timeless character. Pedestrianised, wandering through the streets feels like walking in layers of history. Medieval buildings, many bearing date stamps from the 1400s sit comfortably beside a multitude of cafés, market places, bike and tram lanes. There are reminders of the past everywhere; embedded in the pavements are small brass plaques – Stolpersteine – quietly commemorating Jewish citizens who were deported and murdered in concentration camps. You encounter them unexpectedly outside ordinary homes and shops, and they stop you in your tracks. They record the victims name at a place they were last known to be associated with; their fate and the extermination camps they were transported to. Chilling. Tiny memorials carrying enormous weight.
Above the city rises the Scholssberg hill, with what I can only describe as ‘Hansel and Gretel’ forest paths in the surrounding woods of mighty oaks, beech, Douglas fir, yew trees, sycamore and many more. Fairytale forests. The trails radiate in every direction into the Black Forest though dense woodland and along ridges with spectacular views of the city and onwards towards the Vosges in France and into Switzerland. Hiking is extremely popular – it was noticeable the amount of elderly hikers who all have their walking poles in their back packs as the enter and leave the old city. As much as it is a hikers paradise, Freiburg is unquestionably a cycling city. Bikes are everywhere – commuters, students, parents carrying children on school runs, older people shopping, all moving with an ease that makes the car seem unnecessary. Even on cobbled streets!
The environmental focus of they city is impossible to miss – grass verges remain uncut and wild, gardens are deliberately overgrown, solar panels, green spaces, biodiversity projects and sustainable transport are woven into everyday life here rather than presented as slogans. Reflecting on home and the moaning about bike lanes; the disregard for biodiversity in the interest of making a quick buck at the expense of nature, enough to make you weep.
The centre piece of Freiburg is the magnificent Freiburg Minster, its soaring gothic spire dominating the skyline. The old square below it hums with a vibrant farmers market of the highest quality. We climbed the 365 winding steps to the viewing platform; worth every ounce of effort it entailed with magnificent panoramic views of the city but not a place for anyone scared of heights or enclosed spaces!
The surviving medieval town gates of Martinstor and Schwabentor are great reminders that this was once a fortified medieval city. The only fault I found in Freiburg was the location of a MacDonalds alongside the Martinstor town gate; it just does not belong there!
We walked almost everywhere and walking in the ‘Altstrad’ (old city) is one of the great pleasures of a visit to this compact and beautiful city. You could sit and people watch all day. Around the Cathedral square the farmers market was superb – overflowing with flowers, cheeses, breads, fruits and meats. It is obvious that there is great pride in local handcrafts with so many small independent shops doing a roaring trade. It’ s a real living vibrant city.
We stumbled upon another fascinating tradition in the old city where we encountered quite a few travelling craftsmen – young apprentices dressed in striking traditional clothing, some in black and white, others in brown and white with broad hats and distinctive jackets that seemed to signify different trades. Many of them carried walking staffs and small bundles – it was like a journey back in time. Something very admirable about the tradition of young people travelling, learning skills, seeking work experience for low pay, accommodation do food as they travel around the countryside!
One of our most memorable moments came on the Holy feast day of Ascension Day when we visited the Cathedral and stayed for mass. This was so deeply moving. The massive organ thundered through the Cathedral while powerful choral music (Mary would have loved it!), filled the vast gothic interior. Even without understanding a word, the music carried enormous emotional force. It was timeless and deeply spiritual.
Our time was limited and after four days visiting with John we headed north by train to Karlsruhe, where Ingrid picked us up at the train station and brought us to ‘Mogogo’ where we met Sinéad and her husband Gaym. One of the highlights of our trip was a wonderful meal in his family’s Eritrean restaurant, ‘Mogogo’. The warmth and friendliness we received was unforgettable. The food was traditional Eritrean, shared communally in the traditional way. It was a fabulous occasion. From there Ingrid drove us on to Heidelberg where we would stay with Fiona.
Heidelberg is a gem; a historic and well preserved city on the river Neckar, surrounded by forested hills on both sides of the river and looked over by its massive sandstone castle ruins. Absolutely stunning. We completed a great walk out of the city through the forest looking across the river towards the castle and then down the steep hillside before emerging onto an ancient bridge and then climbed to the Castle. Again the culture of cycling and walking stood out. Forest trails that are on the doorstep of the old city meant that you simply move between urban and forest trails in an instant. The Castle is extraordinary, part ruins and part palace and used a as a concert venue. The old city is so well preserved, filled with buildings that have stood for hundreds of years. Walking through the narrow streets, you are constantly aware of the age of this city that has survived wars, plagues and religious upheaval.
It gave us another memorable culinary experience in a Persian restaurant in the old town. Just like our Eritrean meal back in Karlshrue, it reminded us how travel is enriched by cultural diversity and hospitality.
Sadly all good things come to an end. Our return journey to Zurich saw us take local trains that curved through forests and hill tops before passing the spectacular Rhine Falls. Even glimpsed from a moving train, the sight of Europe’s largest waterfall crashing through he rocks was unforgettable- a final fitting image for a trip filled with lots of walking (100kms), beauty, and family connections.
Travel often becomes a blur of destinations and photos. This journey was different. It was great to reconnect with John, Sinéad and Gaym, Fiona and Ingrid. We saw many wonderful sights but perhaps most pleasing of all was the broad smile on John’s face as we recalled old friends and places from his childhood.
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