Rothar Routes

Cycle routes & pilgrim journeys in Ireland and Europe …..

Posts by Turlough

Time Travel

Every local bike route I follow is more than just a cycle through landscapes—it’s a passage through time. As the wheels glide over quiet bóithríns, the echoes of history ride alongside me, whispering stories etched into the land. Place names, often taken for granted, sometimes unlock these stories, the Irish version often descriptive or recalling long-forgotten events, or maybe the legacy of those who came before us. Each name is a breadcrumb in the great narrative of our shared heritage, linking us to our ancestors ,our cultures – for we have many cultural influences, and traditions that shape the Ireland and localities we live in today.

Cycling through these routes is an act of remembrance, a way of reconnecting with the past while fully immersed in the present. It’s a chance to honour the lives, the struggles, and triumphs of our ancestors by acknowledging the cultural and historical significance of the ground beneath our tyres. These cycles remind me that history isn’t confined to textbooks or museums—it lives in the rivers, the forests, and hills that surround us. I find it energising to explore local routes, its good for my physical well-being but they create a curiosity in me that brings great satisfaction in remembering, recalling or researching those places I encounter and I am grateful that many people enjoy reading about these simple journeys across Carlow and beyond!

Saturday was a good day for the bike; dry and there was a wee bit of a stretch in the afternoon! During the week I tend to cycle at night and usually follow a couple of routes that I know are safe to cycle in the dark. So I look forward to heading in a different direction each weekend and I usually know not where I am headed for! I steered for Palatine village. I always recall my late father telling me about the attractive row of granite cottages, built for Burton’s workers in 1866. The story goes that the doors were all facing to the rear when originally built and that the street-facing door ways were only inserted later. This was done so that the Burtons did not have engage with their workers as they passed!

I had it in my head to head in the direction of Rathvilly and see where the road would take me after that. If I’m cycling to the north east of the county I avoid the main road as it’s not a safe road on the bike. With the spiders web of local roads, there are thankfully always other options, even though that more often than not this entails added kilometres. But sure isn’t that the whole point of cycling in the first place!

After going through Pal village I face the short but steep climb to Knocknacree Crossroads on the main Castledermot – Tullow Road followed by a nice descent towards Graney, site of the infamous ‘Graney Ambush in the War of Independence in 1922. The IRA attacked a convoy of the National Army here and 3 soldiers were killed with 5 badly wounded. Graney was also the site of a Nunnery founded by the Augustinians around 1200 AD until Henry VIII’s dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539, granting the substantial lands to Sir A. St Leger.

These are ideal roads for the bike; good surfaces and not much traffic on them. I turned right in the direction of Rathvilly and soon passed by the impressive Beechy House Stud, owned by racehorse trainer Jim Bolger. It was once owned by Benjamin D’Israeli, uncle of the former British Prime Minister of the same. He gifted a sum of money to enable the construction of a school in Rathvilly, and the beautiful building at Bough is that old school. England’s tentacles are everywhere!

This is a great route to get to Rathvilly by bike – and possibly shorter than the main road, but thankfully not suitable for heavy traffic. I was in ‘Ráth Bhile’ sooner than I expected, crossing over the six arched Slaney bridge which was built in 1800 and is still in good condition despite the high volumes of traffic that have necessitated a set of traffic lights!. Apart from being fairly handy at the auld football, It’s one of Carlow’s prettiest and most historic villages, perched on the hilltop over looking the Slaney. Its ancient origins can be guessed at by its name – Ráth being a fort and Bile referring to a tree where ancient chieftains were inaugurated. Important places in ancient times and trees were revered. So much so that in Brehon Law they were classified in three groupings – scrub trees, common trees and chieftain trees. Chieftain trees included Ash, Oak, Yew, Holly, Pine and Apple. To cut a branch of one of these trees meant a fine of a yearling heifer and worse again if a tree was cut down – a fine of a milk cow! If those laws were still in existence there’d be a lot of livestock in the county pound!

The Moate at Rathvilly was the residence of one Crimthann Mac Énnai, an Uí Chinnsealiagh King of Leinster, between 443-483 and he was baptised here by no less a man than Saint Patrick himself! Nearby is Saint Patricks Well which I have covered previously.

I continued on in the direction of Hacketstown as far as Tombeagh Standing Stone, also known as ‘ The Giant’s Lift’. It’s an odd looking stone but it’s standing proud and undisturbed for hundreds or maybe thousands of years. The cycle down past Knocklishen – Cnoc Lisín Mór and Cnoc Lisín Beag (Hill of the great Ring Fort and Small Fort…). It’s a beautiful sweeping scene down to the Douglas river.

Tombeagh Standing Stone.

I next passed over Mountneil Bridge, which I think was blown up in the Black and Tan times and later replaced.

With the USA intent on banning ‘Ticknock’, I was determined to pay it a visit to check it out and I can confirm it is still open and welcoming of visitors!

I was now on the homeward loop, even if still going away from Carlow, entering into County Wicklow, where the lovely local laneways brought me over towards Aldborough Bridge which got me back over the Slaney. It’s another fine stone bridge which has a foundation soften on the upstream wall bearing the words ‘Aldborough Bridge 182…’ one of only 4 bridges over the Slaney with a a written foundation stone. There was a Reverend Paul Stratford who lived close by in Mountneil, one of the oldest residents of Aldborough. He was a man of such great faith that he prevented local people from trying to save his furniture when the big house went on fire, saying, ‘Never fly in the face of Heaven, my friends. When the Almighty resolved to burn my house, He most certainly intended to destroy my furniture. I am resigned – the Lord’s will be done”. His insurance company didn’t take the same view and refused to pay any portion of the damages, given his lack of interest in saving the property! (Great information in John Duffy’s book ‘River Slaney from source to sea’).

Not too much further on I crossed over a rail bridge, that once took traffic over the Sallins to Tullow rail line, which was built by the GSWR in 1886. The rail line is now defunct of course.

Railway Bridge.

The old railway line passed through here on its way to Tullow via Rathvilly (Station was where Halligans Funeral Home is now located).

I crossed over the Rathvilly Baltinglass road at the Yellowford Cross Roads making my way over via Bigstone, (covered previously), Corballis Hill and into Castledermot; three counties covered today – Carlow, Wicklow and Kildare and in home by Ballaghmoon and Oak Park. A tidy 62kms of wandering through time and space. Another great Saturday adventure!

Here’s a QR Code to the route:

Great European Cycle Routes. Part I.

Imagine cycling through medieval villages, ancient ruins, dried up river beds and scenic hilltops, once walked by pilgrims centuries ago. In Europe, every turn of the wheel brings you closer to the past—and to breathtaking views you’ll never forget. Here’s the first of four great routes that an any able bodied person could undertake! I did this route in 2004(!) with a good friend Caoimhín Corrigan who was Arts Officer in Carlow at that time.

Via de la Plata

A spectacular 1,000kms walking / cycling route, the Via de la Plata is a lesser known pilgrimage route from Seville in southern Spain to Santiago de Compostela in north west Spain, in the province of Galicia. Also known as the Silver Way, the route was a well trodden trade and historic Roman road of which there are many visible reminders as you push those pedals on your journey north. The route takes in some amazing heritage cities such as Caceres, Merida, Salamanca, Zamora before finishing in Santiago. Begin your journey in Andalucia, home to flamenco, tapas and stunning Moorish architecture. Be prepared for the heat – the route passes through remote areas of Andalucia and Extramadura, land of olive groves, cork oaks, cacti and cotton. Did I mention it is hot?

Much of the route is delightfully off road but there is an easier on road option too. The landscapes are full of contrast as you travel north. In the south , it is mostly flat or gently hills; the land is parched and withers under the scorching hot sun. ‘Pata negra’ – Iberian black pigs doze in large herds in the shade of the holm oak trees on the ‘dehesas’ – farms of a few hectares ranging up to large estates. The Iberian pig does “the montanera” , that is, it lives freely in the pasture during the autumn and winter feeding on acorns. They are a sight to behold.

Giving slightly more concern along this section of the route is the presence of large herds of Spanish fighting bulls (Toro Bravo) – bred for bull fighting and often the route passes through large estates with a strand of barbed wire -(if you are lucky) or no barriers between the path and the grazing bulls! So a bit of common sense is required and be on your guard!

As the route heads north the terrain changes as it climbs higher and opens into the vast area known as the Meseta Central. These are the high plains of Spain, the bread basket where wheat is grown. This can test your resilience as the landscapes are huge, with the sense of never ending flatness. Salamanca comes as a huge relief! A beautiful lively university city well worth stopping over in.

The contrast with the south becomes much more noticeable approaching Galicia with the land turning to 40 shades of green; scenes reminiscent of Ireland. It becomes much more mountainous and lush with lots of forests and river crossings. Ascents are really tough on the approach to Ourense with the path passing through remote valleys. Be prepared for rain! Galicia is on a par with the west of Ireland for rainfall. The villages, such as Laza, are like stepping back in time. It’s not uncommon to see horse drawn ploughs in the small holdings. An untamed landscape, home to wild boar, deer and wolves.

It’s up and down all the way to Santiago from Ourense and so far removed from southern Spain in every context – weather, terrain, farming, language, culture, music and history. By the time you arrive in front of the Cathedral your body will be full aware that you have cycled 1,000 kms and the sense of achievement is amazing. Memories and friendships made. Unbelievable experiences of the diversity of Spanish landscapes, climates and cultures.

Salamanca.

The only was through was barefoot!

Toro Bravo! Only a strand of barbed wire between us!

We met my sister Dearbhla in Salamanca , where she was studying at that time.

It’s a route I often think about doing again as it’s so much quieter and remote than the Camino Francés. A different route entirely and equally impressive.

Half Dozen GAA Moments 2024

End of another great year, and it’s nice to look back. So many great memories, these are a few personal ones from visits to games and grounds across the country! Where would we be without the GAA?

Munster SFC Cork v Kerry, Fitzgerald Stadium

Every visit to Fitzgerald Stadium is full of nostalgia for me; it brings me back to great family holidays in Kerry, a love of Kerry football, Munster Finals with Tommy Wogan and John Owens – sneaking into the Kerry dressing room after one epic battle with Cork in, 1989 (if memory serves me correct), listening to Billy Morgan coming in to congratulate the Kerry Team! Cork started this year’s clash very well and dominated for 50 minutes but fell away in the end. Is there a more picturesque ground than Fitzgerald Stadium?

Ulster SFC Armagh v Down, Tiernach Park, Clones

If Thurles is the spiritual home of hurling, Clones can lay claim to be the spiritual home of football, at least in Ulster. It’s a venue I love attending and I regularly by pass games in Croke Park to head to Clones on Ulster Championship days. This was a tight one – a one point win for the Orchard County, 0-13 to 2-6. Conor Laverty got the most from the Mourne men but Kieran McGeeney’s side showed real glimpses of class in how quickly they transitioned the ball. I was delighted to see Armagh go all the way in 2024, another county I have a soft spot for! Great memories of Armagh v Tyrone in 1989, played in Omagh; it was the day the blond haired Jon Lynch, corner back for Tyrone, got pulled into the Armagh dressing room at half time and got a flew slaps! The Giant Grimley brothers were playing for Armagh, two huge men. The atmosphere was electric and Armagh were well on top in the first half. Maybe the tunnel incident changed the game on its head. The great Kevin McCabe kicked 0-9 that day, 0-6 in the second half. The silky skilled Ciarán Corr bagged a goal for Tyrone. Our own John Owens was in and around the Tyrone panel at that time when he was togging out for The Moy, alongside Plunkett Donaghy.

Team Building Day on the Curragh

A memorable day carrying out team building exercises under the watchful eye of Tom Devereux (087 7052140). Highly recommend it for any team. The players bought into it and gave it everything. Sometimes the journey is as important as the destination! Hopefully the lads will arrive at their destination in 2025!

A packed Dr Cullen Park for Carlow v Wexford

A bit of a chastening experience for our hurlers as they slipped to a heavy loss. A series of unforced errors cost them dearly and as a result they didn’t do themselves justice on this day. But what days the hurlers have given to Carlow GAA in recent years. It’s easy see why when you see the standard of the County Senior Hurling Final this year between St Mullins and Mount Leinster Rangers. Poetry in motion. Warriors.

Scotstown GAA – An Bhoth

I passed by the club over the summer when climbing the Monaghan High Point, Sliabh Beagh (373 meters). Football is a religion in Ulster and Scotstown are currently top of the pile in Monaghan with 9 titles in the past 12 years and 24 altogether. I love the swash buckling style of a team sprinkled with star dust – Darren and Kieran Hughes, Rory Beggan between the posts, Jack McCarron, Conor McCarthy and Shane Carey among others. Uniquely the Club also provided the GAA with a great Uachtarán in Seán McCague (2000-2003) and an equally impressive Director General, Pauric Duffy (2008-2018). You can sense the pride and culture in the club when visiting the Grounds.

A memento from a visit a few years back to Pauric Duffy’s office in Croke Park! Pauric didn’t know why the Green Bay Helmet was in his office and he gave it to me as I was leaving. That brought back more memories of another great occasion in Lambeau Field, with Tommy Wogan in 2007 when we saw the Packers play the Raiders in -24 degrees!

Aidan Forker lifts Sam Maguire Cup for Armagh

I was very privileged to have a ring side seat for the Sam Maguire presentation this year – unbelievable seat! Armagh always bring colour and crowds; a GAA mad county and one I have really strong affinity for stretching back to 1977, the year Dublin beat them in the All Ireland Final. You see Armagh fulfilled a promise and came to Carlow to play our lads. Players like Colm McKinstry, Joe Kernan, Jimmy Smyth, Paddy Moriarty, Jimmy Kerr and Tom McCreesh were heroic figures to me. Years later I was privileged to befriend the greatest coach I know, the late John Morrison. We became very close and spoke almost every day. John would send me his articles that he was preparing for the Ulster Gazette to read and critique. There was nothing I could add to them – he was teaching me. In my experience John was one of the biggest influences on coaching in Gaelic Football.

Kerry SFC Final Dr Crokes v Dingle

A miserable day in Austin Stack Park where Dr Crokes finally got on top of Dingle to run out as fortunate winners by 3-8 to 0-11. It could have been so different if Dingle had taken goals instead of points from three great first half opportunities when they were completely dominant. Fair play though to Pat O Shea, though, he got to grips with the challenge and his side went on to run out deserving winners. Is there an All Ireland Club title there for them in January? Time will tell but I don’t think so.

B.Y.O.B

Bring your own ball!

10 Hidden Gems, hiding in Plain Sight..

As the morning mists lifts over our beautiful country bóthríns, the rolling of my tyres is the only sound I hear. This is bike touring – intimate, unhurried and endlessly rewarding. You see every road has a destination, some are hiding in plain sight.. here are 10 that brought me quiet satisfaction when I visited them during 2024:

1 Fourknocks Passage Tomb

15 kms south of Newgrange is the much lesser known Fourknocks Passage Tomb. Keys are available from a neighbouring house and you can explore this fabulous 5,000 year old tomb all on your own. Off the beaten track and all the more impressive for it.

2. The Seven Wonders of Fore

The Seven Wonders of Fore include the monastery in the bog, the water that flows uphill, the tree that won’t burn, the water that won’t boil, the anchorite in a stone, the mill without a race and the lintel raised by St Feichin’s prayers! This is a magical place in County Westmeath with a lovely 4kms walk to visit all the sites. Check it out!

3. Meelick Weir Crossing of the Shannon

The weir was damaged in severe storms in 2009 and again in 2015/2016, when the walkway was also damaged and was subsequently closed and is now reopened. It links the historic village of Meelick in east Galway to Lusmagh in west Offaly and forms part of the Hymany Way and the Beara-Breifne Way walking trails.  It’s a unique spot – the three provinces of Leinster, Connacht and Munster meet right here. Lots of interesting historical sites on both sides of the Shannon here.

4. The Shannon Pot

The Shannon, Ireland’s largest river, at a magnificent 360kms, literally comes bubbling out of the ground close to the border between Cavan and Fermanagh in the Cuilcagh Mountains, at a place quaintly called The Shannon Pot or Log na Sionna as Gaeilge, “The Hollow of the Shannon”. It’s a large pool of golden brown water about 16 metres in diameter and at least 9 metres deep. The water reaches the Pot through a network of underground streams and many say that it actually starts in County Fermanagh at a place called the Pigeon Pot.

5. Clonfert Cathedral

I stumbled on a unique burial tradition here in Clonfert, where graves are lined with chicken wire and branches of laurel are woven into the wire to provide a beautiful resting place for the deceased. I was delighted to see this being done while I was being regaled with the true tale of the incredible 9 legged cycle! Anthony Flanagan lost his leg many years ago in a combine harvester accident. He didn’t allow it define him or inhibit him and he undertook an incredible charity cycle a couple of years ago along with 4 others. With just ONE LEG he completed a 420km cycle IN 24 HOURS for some local causes. The following year they cycled to Croagh Patrick AND HE CLIMBED IT! I came out of Clonfert graveyard with my head spinning, full of amazement at the spirit of Anthony and his absolute determination to get on with life regardless of the cruel hand he was dealt. St Brendan the Navigator founded his monastery here and it became a great seat of learning with over 3,000 monks here in its heyday.

6. Presley Ancestral Grave

It’s hard to reconcile the glitzy image of the King of Rock ‘n’ Roll with this peaceful corner of Wicklow, but perhaps that’s the magic of it. As I stood there, the connection between past and present felt palpable. There’s a QR code on a sign at the entrance to the graveyard, which gives a detailed account of the Presley connection. Nearby Hacketstown also claims to be the birthplace of the Presley ancestors. There are court reports from the 1870s of a savage beating William Presley received on land he rented in Hacketstown, possibly by the ‘Whiteboys’, a secret agrarian society which defended tenant farmers land rights… I don’t think Elvis was singing the ‘Green Green Grass of Home’ in honour of the old sod!

7. Mount Melleray Monastery

Sad to say, but since I visited Mount Melleray over the Summer, news has broken of its imminent closure. It’s a Cistercian Abbey located in the Knockmealdown Mountains. The Abbey was founded on 30 May 1832 by a colony of Irish and English monks, expelled from the abbey of Melleray after the French Revolution of 1830, and who had come to Ireland under the leadership of Fr. Vincent de Paul Ryan. It was called Mount Melleray in memory of the motherhouse. I had a great chat there with Father Denis Luke, Prior of the Abbey, about cycling and the Camino, a really nice man who had a kind word for everyone. Soon there will be no one to greet visitors. Another loss…

8. Baunreagh 1798 Camp Field

I finally saw the sign for the 1798 Camp Field, where Father Murphy and the Wexford Rebels were camped out during the 1798 rising. What an epic march they made from Vinegar Hill, then were betrayed and badly beaten at the Battle of Kilcumney, got up as far as Castlecomer and forced back down country before he met his dreadful end at the hands of the Yeomen in Tullow, where he was  stripped, flogged, hanged, decapitated, his corpse burnt in a barrel of tar and his head impaled on a spike in the Main Square. Hard to forget or forgive those terrible deeds.

9. W.B. Yeats Grave

The village of Drumcliffe, County Sligo is famous for being the final resting place of W.B.Yeats, whose grave is in the churchyard under this simple headstone. Yeats died in 1939 in a hotel in the south of France. He was buried in a pauper’s grace in the village of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, close to Monaco. His body was returned to Ireland in 1948 and buried in Drumcliffe. The release of State Papers this week express serious doubts over the identity of the ‘Yeats bones’ .

10 Mullaghgarve Mass Rock, Sliabh an Iarainn

Mass Rocks were rocks used as altars during the Penal Laws in the 1700s and were usually located in out of the way locations. This one is perfectly hidden from view behind a tall pinnacle, on the side of Sliabh an Iarainn, County Leitrim and is quite difficult to find. Once you turn at the pinnacle there is a short little section of roughly cut steps that take you to this unique mass rock. It’s perfectly secluded and with watch outs on duty the priest and his flock could safely celebrate mass without fear of the redcoats or peelers surprising them.

The Bike is the Best Way to see what you cannot see!

Every time I go out on the bike I see something new, or rather something old that I see for the first time! There is no other mode of transport that opens the mind and the eyes to little gems of history that otherwise are passed unnoticed. Yesterday I had a great spin out through Ballylinan and Barrowhouse, I stopped in Ballylinan and noticed an inscription on the side of the entrance stone to Grace Avenue. The inscription paid tribute to to one William Russell Grace, formerly of Ballylinan, who left Ireland in the 1840s, travelled to Peru to establish an Irish agricultural community, returned home and then went to the States where he became the first Irish American Catholic Mayor of New York! He held office, lost it at the next election but regained it at the following election and in his second term received the Statue of Liberty as a gift from France! Isn’t that an amazing little snippet of history. I had no idea about until I happened by chance to stop and read the feint inscription on the entrance stone! The weather was incredibly mild and I got a lovely 48kms done on the quietest of back roads.

Today took me in the opposite direction; while out in my sisters’ house on Christmas night, someone mentioned the Alpaca Farm at Augha. In all my cycles around the Nurney plateau, I hadn’t come across this Alpaca Farm, which I see on Google Maps is the ‘ Tinryland Alpaca Farm! I found it easy enough and could see them well in off the road but was disappointed they weren’t wearing hooped jerseys!

It was another lovely mild morning, even if a little misty at times and I headed on down to Dunleckney Graveyard, where I could see that TC Clarke, who lives beside it was having a gathering of the clan! A great footballing family. Into Muinebheag and out to Royal Oak, where I swung a left for Wells graveyard. One of the best kept old graveyards in the county – it wasn’t always so as the story board recounts the deterioration in the graveyard with ‘pigs, sheep and goats all using the headstones as scratching posts! Records show a church here as far back as 1262 AD and there is a well maintained Church ruin still standing. There are headstones dating back to the 1700s and it is still an active graveyard. It’s a very tranquil picturesque setting and you could hardly be buried in a better place!

I then crossed the old Kilkenny road and headed up a bóithrín in the direction of Milebush. Now that was a steep steep climb, with gradient reaching 15% at one point; no wonder Michael Meaney was always so fit! Mind you looking at the Ordnance Survey Map, I think he could have played for Kilkenny too! As I climbed up out of the Barrow Valley, I entered what appeared to be Carlow’s ‘Land of the Long White Cloud’ and visibility became quite poor as I made it to Baunreagh, subject of a possible new wind farm, which does not appear to be welcome in the area; there are a lot of houses dotted around here and it’s easy understand the concerns.

I was again glad I was on the bike as I finally saw the sign for the 1798 Camp Field, where Father Murphy and the Wexford Rebels were camped out during the rising. What an epic march they made from Vinegar Hill, were badly beaten at the Battle of Kilcumney, got up as far as Castlecomer and forced back down country before he met his dreadful end at the hands of the Yeomen in Tullow, where he was  stripped, flogged, hanged, decapitated, his corpse burnt in a barrel of tar and his head impaled on a spike in the Main Square. Hard to forget or forgive those terrible deeds.

Visibility was getting poorer and I headed for home along the Ridge Drive, turning back towards Clogrenanne and then sharp left for the Cruachán and back through Graiguecullen. 54 kms in total, with 700 metres of climbing. Another great day in the saddle!