I promised myself, when I visited the Seven Wonders of Fore, almost a year ago to the day, that I’d return with my bike to further explore this ancient land full of mystery. This morning was sharp, good and dry, not too cold – ideal or the bike. These are the places I love to visit and I knew today would be special; I was embarking on a journey through time, from the Legendary Seven Wonders of Fore to the ancient hilltop cairns of Loughcrew and then on towards Lough Sheelin in Cavan.
Fore is nestled between two beautiful hills, the Ben of Fore to the north east and Carrick Balor (Of the Evil Eye) in the south west. I pedalled past ‘The Water that runs Uphill’, surely an optical illusion – or is it magic! It was then over the ‘Water which will not boil’ as I headed into the grounds of the Monastery Built in a Bog – still standing defiant against the marshy land beneath! A magical lands for sure!
I left Fore behind and took to the winding roads, leaving thoughts of the mysterious Wonders behind as I headed the relatively short trip into County Meath and one of it’s most important sites in the Boyne Valley region at Loughcrew. This corner of Westmeath and Meath has a feel of Ulster about it, with beautifully striking drumlins to struggle up and to speed down. Big grassy knobs full of sheep nestled above numerous little lakes, hardly known outside the locality. Lough Bane (Lough Ban – White Lake), is a long sliver of water with beautiful views on both sides.
The climb to Loughcrew is steep on a bike and today I was having deraileur problems, which didn’t help. I managed to sort it when I got to the entrance to the site. I didn’t go in today as I couldn’t leave the bike unattended and the walk to the top and back takes a good 40 minutes. I’ve been here before and the sight at the summit is spectacular and the Cairns, older than the Great Pyramids of Egypt, stand as guardians of time, the chambers holding the secret’s of Ireland’s first people. The Loughcrew Cairns are a group of 30 passage tombs, comprising one of the most important prehistoric cemeteries in Ireland, dating from 3200BC and feature some of Europe’s finest megalithic carved stone art.
Rock Art at Loughcrew
I took these photos at Loughcrew on my last visit in September 2020.
It was downhill towards Lough Sheelin then and what I thought was County Cavan, but there is a narrow sliver of County Meath that juts into the lake and I did not actually set foot in Cavan! I paused and took in the view, realising today’s journey hadn’t just been one of kilometres cycled but a journey through time. From the mystical wonders of Fore to the ancient spirits of Loughcrew and the quiet beauty of Lough Sheelin, a cycle through the soul of Ireland. In the whispers of the stones and water, stories of the past rode with me as I turned for home.
Saint Brigid gave us another Bank Holiday and I used it to head north to add another mountain top to my goal of completing the 32 Counties high Point Challenge and also to attend great coaching workshop in Coalisland on the way home. Two birds killed with the one stone so to speak!
Sawel, at 665 metres, is the highest point in counties Tyrone and Derry. It’s situated in the heart of the remote and beautiful Sperrin Mountains.
It’s a long long drive from Carlow – 300kms approximately but there was no rush and I enjoyed the drive up, especially driving through the Sperrins to get to the start point, which is on the Sperrin Road; a thin strip of black tarmac splitting the mountain range in two as it winds up and down over rises and falls of the approach. Looking out the window of the car lulled me into a false sense of confidence; all seemed calm, until I pulled into my parking spot near a cattle grid. ‘Twas then I realised the winds outside were blowing up a storm! The car was buffeted from side to side and I decided to face the car head on into the wind to lessen the effect. Wind speeds yesterday were 60kms/h with gusts up to 72km/h!
While it was cloudy overhead, visibility was good and it was mild when starting out. That didn’t last long and mist covered the mountain, turning to rain. Ground conditions were awful and I seriously considered abandoning the walk, but given the distance I had travelled and the fact that I could follow a fence all the way to the summit I decided to go ahead and complete it with caution. I had brought with hiking poles and they were a godsend.
It’s an easy route to navigate and impossible to get lost once you stick to the fence, which has to be crossed a few times over stiles. Underfoot the ground was soaked and at various points I was ankle deep in black treacle, trying to suck the boots off me!
The winds were increasing in speed as I ascended and made it extremely difficult to progress forward in. What looked on paper like an easy one to notch up, it was anything but. As a result it took much longer than it should have and I knew the challenge going down would be worse as the ground was like a bar of soap. Sure enough I had a few tumbles, one was particularly bad in which I hyper extended my knee as my leg went underneath me as I fell backwards. I took a moment to regain my composure but thankfully I was slowly able to pick a path down without any further incidents. No serious damage done.
It was unfortunate how the weather turned out as the views when I started were so nice and I had hoped to take in the panoramic views at the top. Unfortunately it was hard enough to even spot the summit cairn! It’s a boggy route at this time of year and I probably should have left this until summer time but given I was going to Coalisland I decided to bag it right away! As it wasn’t a Bank Holiday up north, there was no one else on the mountain.
That’s High Points 22 and 23 completed. 9 more to do, 2 of them are shared so 8 in effect. Will get a few more during the year but unlikely to complete it all in 2025!
Today showed how dangerous mountain tops can be and the importance of assessing the conditions, proper gear (need new boots) and navigation. 665 metres may not seem very high but weather at this elevation is completely different than when at the base of the climb. The out and back distance is only 5.5kms but even that is a challenge in those conditions.
It’s been a while! With the bad weather and the deterioration in the Track, I’ve been staying away from the River for some time. There is very bad rutting created by the heavy machinery that WWI insist on using for maintenance work. That plays havoc with the front wheel of the bike and it also creates a ‘washboard effect’ resulting in constant vibration through the handlebars.
The plan was to start in Goresbridge at the Goodly Barrow Cafe, follow the towpath to Graiguenamanagh and then head up Brandon Hill for a bit of mountain biking. Yesterday morning was perfect – starting out!
The river was high and chocolate brown due to the recent rains. The track itself was soft but mostly passable and the path from here to Saint Mullins is so beautiful, set in a scene that could be straight from the Canadian Rockies!
It was very evident that there was a savage cutting back of the riverside trees and vegetation. Carrying out this work with massive tractors and hedge cutters does unnecessary damage and rather than maintain the path is destroying it. Regular walkers and cyclists are deeply concerned with how this is being managed. So sad to see as this is one of the few wilderness areas we have in this county. In fact the Barrow towpath is the longest continuous off road hiking trail in Ireland. It’s ironic that WWI are so determined to replace the grass surface with a hard surface while the State is attempting to create hiking routes all over the country as there is a dearth of accessible long distance routes! It’s akin to saying we could put an elevator to the top of Carrauntoohil or up Croagh Patrick!! Destroying the very wilderness that are trying to promote.
Despite this, the Towpath twists and turns its way south between the Blackstairs Mountains and Brandon Hill, with rocky escarpments towering over the towpath between Clashganny and Graiguenamanagh, a place to lose yourself in the quiet magic. Time seems to pause itself and it’s easy relax and enjoy the great outdoors down here. East West Mapping have a great map of the Blackstairs Mountains and the Barrow Way with such great detail to even naming the rocks in the River!. Here’s a photo of one such rock just south of Ballinagrane Lock, called Baunnagun Rock!
It’s amazing the impact one man can have on others. Hail rain or snow, Ronan Ryan (@roriain) voluntarily and single handedly ensures the Track is litter free all year round. It was great to bump into him again – I can meet him anywhere from Athy to St Mullins, with his little dog along as companion. This simple yet profound commitment to cleaning the riverbank demonstrates how individual action can lead to societal change. It shows that improving the world does not require extraordinary resources, only an extraordinary will to act. By keeping the riverbank clean and showcasing its natural beauty, Ronan is fostering environmental awareness, community engagement, and a spirit of stewardship. Protecting and celebrating the world we all share and we all need to care just as much as he does.
I was very wary cycling given how soft the towpath was – one mistake and the bike could have ended up in the River and believe you me, I know all about that as it once happened to me when my wheel got caught in a rut and I ended up head first in the cold December water up past the Sugar factory!
About a kilometer before Graiguenamanagh, I stopped to take a photo of the rings of a recently cut down tree; I counted 50 rings; 50 years standing sentry along the river bank but sadly no more!
Just then the heavens opened… Brandon and disappeared into the cloud and my plans were changing rapidly. I made it into Graiguenamanagh or Gráig na Manach (Village of the Monks), took a few photos and headed back through the teeming rain out towards Ullard Church.
A photo of Red Willie Walsh or Liamy Walsh, possibly Carlow’s greatest ever hurler; a beautifully skilled and balance hurler.
The thoughts of cycling in the rain are off putting but funnily enough it’s actually very enjoyable in childlike way! Rain pouring down, wheels spring fast though loughs of water, the earth smells fresh and the air feels free, head down and bating on for home!
Every day is a good day when you can get out and enjoy the great outdoors. Always something to see and to awaken a curiosity in nature and our historical sites.
Every local bike route I follow is more than just a cycle through landscapes—it’s a passage through time. As the wheels glide over quiet bóithríns, the echoes of history ride alongside me, whispering stories etched into the land. Place names, often taken for granted, sometimes unlock these stories, the Irish version often descriptive or recalling long-forgotten events, or maybe the legacy of those who came before us. Each name is a breadcrumb in the great narrative of our shared heritage, linking us to our ancestors ,our cultures – for we have many cultural influences, and traditions that shape the Ireland and localities we live in today.
Cycling through these routes is an act of remembrance, a way of reconnecting with the past while fully immersed in the present. It’s a chance to honour the lives, the struggles, and triumphs of our ancestors by acknowledging the cultural and historical significance of the ground beneath our tyres. These cycles remind me that history isn’t confined to textbooks or museums—it lives in the rivers, the forests, and hills that surround us. I find it energising to explore local routes, its good for my physical well-being but they create a curiosity in me that brings great satisfaction in remembering, recalling or researching those places I encounter and I am grateful that many people enjoy reading about these simple journeys across Carlow and beyond!
Saturday was a good day for the bike; dry and there was a wee bit of a stretch in the afternoon! During the week I tend to cycle at night and usually follow a couple of routes that I know are safe to cycle in the dark. So I look forward to heading in a different direction each weekend and I usually know not where I am headed for! I steered for Palatine village. I always recall my late father telling me about the attractive row of granite cottages, built for Burton’s workers in 1866. The story goes that the doors were all facing to the rear when originally built and that the street-facing door ways were only inserted later. This was done so that the Burtons did not have engage with their workers as they passed!
I had it in my head to head in the direction of Rathvilly and see where the road would take me after that. If I’m cycling to the north east of the county I avoid the main road as it’s not a safe road on the bike. With the spiders web of local roads, there are thankfully always other options, even though that more often than not this entails added kilometres. But sure isn’t that the whole point of cycling in the first place!
After going through Pal village I face the short but steep climb to Knocknacree Crossroads on the main Castledermot – Tullow Road followed by a nice descent towards Graney, site of the infamous ‘Graney Ambush in the War of Independence in 1922. The IRA attacked a convoy of the National Army here and 3 soldiers were killed with 5 badly wounded. Graney was also the site of a Nunnery founded by the Augustinians around 1200 AD until Henry VIII’s dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539, granting the substantial lands to Sir A. St Leger.
These are ideal roads for the bike; good surfaces and not much traffic on them. I turned right in the direction of Rathvilly and soon passed by the impressive Beechy House Stud, owned by racehorse trainer Jim Bolger. It was once owned by Benjamin D’Israeli, uncle of the former British Prime Minister of the same. He gifted a sum of money to enable the construction of a school in Rathvilly, and the beautiful building at Bough is that old school. England’s tentacles are everywhere!
This is a great route to get to Rathvilly by bike – and possibly shorter than the main road, but thankfully not suitable for heavy traffic. I was in ‘Ráth Bhile’ sooner than I expected, crossing over the six arched Slaney bridge which was built in 1800 and is still in good condition despite the high volumes of traffic that have necessitated a set of traffic lights!. Apart from being fairly handy at the auld football, It’s one of Carlow’s prettiest and most historic villages, perched on the hilltop over looking the Slaney. Its ancient origins can be guessed at by its name – Ráth being a fort and Bile referring to a tree where ancient chieftains were inaugurated. Important places in ancient times and trees were revered. So much so that in Brehon Law they were classified in three groupings – scrub trees, common trees and chieftain trees. Chieftain trees included Ash, Oak, Yew, Holly, Pine and Apple. To cut a branch of one of these trees meant a fine of a yearling heifer and worse again if a tree was cut down – a fine of a milk cow! If those laws were still in existence there’d be a lot of livestock in the county pound!
The Moate at Rathvilly was the residence of one Crimthann Mac Énnai, an Uí Chinnsealiagh King of Leinster, between 443-483 and he was baptised here by no less a man than Saint Patrick himself! Nearby is Saint Patricks Well which I have covered previously.
I continued on in the direction of Hacketstown as far as Tombeagh Standing Stone, also known as ‘ The Giant’s Lift’. It’s an odd looking stone but it’s standing proud and undisturbed for hundreds or maybe thousands of years. The cycle down past Knocklishen – Cnoc Lisín Mór and Cnoc Lisín Beag (Hill of the great Ring Fort and Small Fort…). It’s a beautiful sweeping scene down to the Douglas river.
Tombeagh Standing Stone.
I next passed over Mountneil Bridge, which I think was blown up in the Black and Tan times and later replaced.
With the USA intent on banning ‘Ticknock’, I was determined to pay it a visit to check it out and I can confirm it is still open and welcoming of visitors!
I was now on the homeward loop, even if still going away from Carlow, entering into County Wicklow, where the lovely local laneways brought me over towards Aldborough Bridge which got me back over the Slaney. It’s another fine stone bridge which has a foundation soften on the upstream wall bearing the words ‘Aldborough Bridge 182…’ one of only 4 bridges over the Slaney with a a written foundation stone. There was a Reverend Paul Stratford who lived close by in Mountneil, one of the oldest residents of Aldborough. He was a man of such great faith that he prevented local people from trying to save his furniture when the big house went on fire, saying, ‘Never fly in the face of Heaven, my friends. When the Almighty resolved to burn my house, He most certainly intended to destroy my furniture. I am resigned – the Lord’s will be done”. His insurance company didn’t take the same view and refused to pay any portion of the damages, given his lack of interest in saving the property! (Great information in John Duffy’s book ‘River Slaney from source to sea’).
Not too much further on I crossed over a rail bridge, that once took traffic over the Sallins to Tullow rail line, which was built by the GSWR in 1886. The rail line is now defunct of course.
Railway Bridge.
The old railway line passed through here on its way to Tullow via Rathvilly (Station was where Halligans Funeral Home is now located).
I crossed over the Rathvilly Baltinglass road at the Yellowford Cross Roads making my way over via Bigstone, (covered previously), Corballis Hill and into Castledermot; three counties covered today – Carlow, Wicklow and Kildare and in home by Ballaghmoon and Oak Park. A tidy 62kms of wandering through time and space. Another great Saturday adventure!
Imagine cycling through medieval villages, ancient ruins, dried up river beds and scenic hilltops, once walked by pilgrims centuries ago. In Europe, every turn of the wheel brings you closer to the past—and to breathtaking views you’ll never forget. Here’s the first of four great routes that an any able bodied person could undertake! I did this route in 2004(!) with a good friend Caoimhín Corrigan who was Arts Officer in Carlow at that time.
Via de la Plata
A spectacular 1,000kms walking / cycling route, the Via de la Plata is a lesser known pilgrimage route from Seville in southern Spain to Santiago de Compostela in north west Spain, in the province of Galicia. Also known as the Silver Way, the route was a well trodden trade and historic Roman road of which there are many visible reminders as you push those pedals on your journey north. The route takes in some amazing heritage cities such as Caceres, Merida, Salamanca, Zamora before finishing in Santiago. Begin your journey in Andalucia, home to flamenco, tapas and stunning Moorish architecture. Be prepared for the heat – the route passes through remote areas of Andalucia and Extramadura, land of olive groves, cork oaks, cacti and cotton. Did I mention it is hot?
Much of the route is delightfully off road but there is an easier on road option too. The landscapes are full of contrast as you travel north. In the south , it is mostly flat or gently hills; the land is parched and withers under the scorching hot sun. ‘Pata negra’ – Iberian black pigs doze in large herds in the shade of the holm oak trees on the ‘dehesas’ – farms of a few hectares ranging up to large estates. The Iberian pig does “the montanera” , that is, it lives freely in the pasture during the autumn and winter feeding on acorns. They are a sight to behold.
Giving slightly more concern along this section of the route is the presence of large herds of Spanish fighting bulls (Toro Bravo) – bred for bull fighting and often the route passes through large estates with a strand of barbed wire -(if you are lucky) or no barriers between the path and the grazing bulls! So a bit of common sense is required and be on your guard!
As the route heads north the terrain changes as it climbs higher and opens into the vast area known as the Meseta Central. These are the high plains of Spain, the bread basket where wheat is grown. This can test your resilience as the landscapes are huge, with the sense of never ending flatness. Salamanca comes as a huge relief! A beautiful lively university city well worth stopping over in.
The contrast with the south becomes much more noticeable approaching Galicia with the land turning to 40 shades of green; scenes reminiscent of Ireland. It becomes much more mountainous and lush with lots of forests and river crossings. Ascents are really tough on the approach to Ourense with the path passing through remote valleys. Be prepared for rain! Galicia is on a par with the west of Ireland for rainfall. The villages, such as Laza, are like stepping back in time. It’s not uncommon to see horse drawn ploughs in the small holdings. An untamed landscape, home to wild boar, deer and wolves.
It’s up and down all the way to Santiago from Ourense and so far removed from southern Spain in every context – weather, terrain, farming, language, culture, music and history. By the time you arrive in front of the Cathedral your body will be full aware that you have cycled 1,000 kms and the sense of achievement is amazing. Memories and friendships made. Unbelievable experiences of the diversity of Spanish landscapes, climates and cultures.
Salamanca.
The only was through was barefoot!
Toro Bravo! Only a strand of barbed wire between us!
We met my sister Dearbhla in Salamanca , where she was studying at that time.
It’s a route I often think about doing again as it’s so much quieter and remote than the Camino Francés. A different route entirely and equally impressive.
