Continuing my quest to climb the 32 county highest points, I travelled the short distance across to the stunning Slieve Bloom Mountains straddling the Laois – Offaly border. One of my favourite mountain ranges, it’s deceptively extensive and has some love Glens for a Sunday hike or drive. At just 527 metres in height it’s a short hike but tricky underfoot conditions make it one to be careful on! The starting point is behind the Laois Offaly border marker, pictured below, located in the Glendine Gap:
It descends steeply on a slippery path, with water flowing down it, into a boggy glen that’s very wet and impossible to cross without getting feet wet! It then ascends steeply for a short distance, again on a slippery soft path that tries to suck your boots off! Thankfully the rain that fell on the way across gave way to a beautiful blue sky on a crisp October afternoon.
The path crosses through a lot of heather and is well worn so it’s easy follow and almost impossible to get lost. It’s a sort distance to the summit from the car park of just about 1km but it takes maybe 20 minutes to climb up to the summit cairn. The summit is very exposed and a cold wind meant I wasn’t lingering too long while I briefly enjoyed the marvellous views of counties Laois, Offaly, Kilkenny, Tipperary and even south Galway.
Mountaineering Ireland have created a list of Irish mountains and summits and called it Arderins. Árderin literally translates as ‘Height of Ireland’, which it clearly isn’t but nonetheless it’s a great climb, one well worth doing on a fine day.
That’s summit 17 and 18 of 32 completed and hopefully I will get a few more done over the winter; not the best time of year for hillwalking but summer is usually for the bike! Had the added bonus of seeing a red squirrel today scampering up a tree nearby! Simple pleasures.
We were just talking in the family WhatsApp group about how understated County Waterford is – such a beautiful county with a fantastic coastline, mountains and interesting towns and villages.
One of my favourite cycle routes is an out and back jaunt. Parking at Horsewood GAA Club in Wexford, I cycle down by Dunbrody Abbey, over the hill into Ballyhack where I catch the Ferry to Passage East and journey on to Dunmore East. The ferry adds a bit of exotic to a bike trip and there’s always something exciting about getting on board! The route is deceptively hilly with fantastic coastal views and the great Hook Head Lighthouse off to the south.
I take a turn off the Passage – Dunmore road at Woodside beach onto a cul de sac which ends with a short and very narrow walking trail that connects with a local road on the Dunmore side of the headland, named on some maps as “the Black Woman’s Road”; I suspect its a mistranslation of possible Beann Gorm… cycling across the path is an experience as the branches of brambles and gorse bushes wallop your face!
Last week I wandered through the Iveagh Gardens where a gate between the National Museum for Literature and the Gardens bears a plaque with a quote from Maeve Binchey, so it was a coincidence that we ended up in Dunmore East this weekend, a place also associated with the writer, being the location of some scenes in the film of her book ‘Echoes’. We need to be better prepared – the sun was shining and we should have brought swimming gear with us!
Waterford is not too far away and there’s a lot more of it I want to explore so I took another trip on Sunday, this time parking up outside Cappoquinn Affane GAA Club! I’m trying to get miles and hills into the legs as I’ve big cycle coming up in Spain – Camino del Cid at the end of May and today was just perfect. I had only a rough idea of a route and I was delighted with how it worked out. The main road from Cappoquinn to Lismore is extremely busy but thankfully there’s a local road that is part of the beautiful St. Declans Way that I was able to take and avoid the dangerous main road.
St Declan’s Way is a 115km walking route linking the ancient ecclesiastical centres of Ardmore in County Waterford and Cashel in Tipperary passing through the Knockmealdown Mountains and the undulating farmland of south Tipperary and west Waterford. It has become very popular thanks to the efforts of travel book writer,John G O Dwyer .
St Declan’s Way Walk utilises the route of several ancient and medieval pilgrimage and trading routes such as the Rian Bo Phadraig (Track of St. Patrick’s Cow), Bothar na Naomh (Road of the Saints), Casan na Naomh (Path of the Saints) and St. Declan’s Road.
St Declan was a fifth century saint who brought Christianity to the southern part of Ireland and he is particularly associated with the Deise people. He established his monastery in Ardmore and his grave there remains an important place of pilgrimage. Cashel was the seat of the Kings of Munster and St. Declan’s Way follows the route he would have taken from Ardmore to Cashel.
Art deco Handball Alley in Lismore!
Lismore is a really beautiful historic town with a stunning castle over looking the famed River Blackwater. It’s a real West Waterford gem that I haven’t been in too often but I’ll be back as its great base to explore the Knockmealdown Mountains from.
Having stumbled on St Declans Way, I decided I would follow the path back up into the mountains. It’s a steep route out of Lismore but with beautiful views to distract from the effort involved. It wasn’t too long before I caught sight of impressive Mount Melleray Abbey up ahead in the distance.
Mount Melleray is a Cistercian Abbey located in the Knockmealdown Mountains. I was delighted to see a sign for a café where I had a very welcome snack! The Abbey was founded on 30 May 1832 by a colony of Irish and English monks, expelled from the abbey of Melleray after the French Revolution of 1830, and who had come to Ireland under the leadership of Fr. Vincent de Paul Ryan. It was called Mount Melleray in memory of the motherhouse. I had a great chat there with Father Denis Luke, Prior of the Abbey, about cycling and the Camino, a really nice man who had a kind word for everyone.
I left the Abbey and headed uphill again in the direction of Newcastle, County Tipperary but I turned off onto what has to be the roughest and steepest road in Ireland! It was a little local road, that has obviously fallen into disuse, along the side of Knockanask and Knocknascullogue which then linked me onto another loop which gave me a great downhill all the way back to Cappoquinn. A superb route with lots more to see in that area on future cycles.
The Shannon. Ireland’s largest river, at a magnificent 360kms, comes bubbling out of the ground close to the border between Cavan and Fermanagh in the Cuilcagh Mountains, at a place quaintly called The Shannon Pot or Log na Sionna as Gaeilge “The Hollow of the Shannon”. It’s a large pool of golden brown water about 16 metres in diameter and at least 9 metres deep. The water reaches the Pot through a network of underground streams and many say that it actually starts in County Fermanagh at a place called the Pigeon Pot. An experiment saw some green dye poured into the Pigeon Pot and observing that it eventually travelled underground to reach the Shannon Pot! In truth there are probably multiple streams feeding into it. This area is full of extensive cave networks and Marble Arch Caves, on the other side of the Mountain, are worth a visit.
Rivers and streams play important roles in Irish mythology as a boundary between this World and the Otherworld. Almost all Irish Rivers bear names associated with the Goddesses of the mysterious Tuatha Dé Danann. And so it came to pass that The Shannon was named after Sionann, granddaughter of the Manannán Mac Lir, the Irish Sea God. She visited the pool at the source of the river to catch the Salmon of Knowledge, just like Fiona Mac Cumhaill. That didn’t work out too well and the water rose up and drowned her!
There’s a great energy about the Pot and the setting is beautiful in an under appreciated corner of the country. Its good to see the Cuilcagh Lakelands now being promoted on both sides of the border – there’s lots to see up here that’s off the beaten track and is as good as anywhere in the country but without the mass tourism. Also well worth a visit is the Stairway to Heaven walkway up Cuilcagh Mountain.
It may have been the shortest High Point walk so far, but I was nearly blown off this little hill on the Kildare – Wicklow border this morning! Standing 379 metres tall, it has seriously good viewing across the plains of Kildare and on the opposite side towards the Wicklow mountains. This view is restricted however by the forestry plantation.
Trig Point on Cupidstown Hill
The best way to approach it is probably to take the Kilteel exit off the N7. Pass the Church on your right, take the next left opposite Brennans pub and then take the left at the fork in the road. Today was so windy; there is a 200 metres stretch of the approach road lined with old oak trees – a Kildare version of the Dark Hedges, if you have a good imagination! There are bits of branches flying in all directions and I had to run the gauntlet or head home! It was worth it though to complete the 15th County High Point. I’ve been picking off the low hanging fruit these past few walks – the weather isn’t conducive to tackling higher, wetter ground. I’m hoping to try a few over the Christmas break, but we will have to wait and see how the weather holds up!
The high point for many an ambitious Club footballer is an All Ireland or a Provincial Club medal. Today it was the turn of St Brigid’s, Roscommon and Corofin, Galway to contest the Connacht Final in ‘The Hyde’, a venue I like to visit. First though I had an early start as I wanted to take in the County High Points in counties Longford and Roscommon.
The weather forecast was for frost and ice, but thankfully it was raining at 6.30am this morning when I woke – but the fog was milky thick! Undeterred I headed first for the Longford’s high point, Corn Hill (278 metres) and I was atop that little hill at 9am!
Longford is as flat at a midland accent but it was still a lovely short little ramble. I had just stepped out of the car when the sun burnt off the mist on top of Corn Hill. It’s a pretty little spot, steeped in folklore with its original Irish name Carn Clainne Aodha more revealing about its past. There are two possible passage tombs which have two legends associated with them. One of them is supposedly the burial place of Queen Medbh’s nephew, Forbaide Ferbend. who killed her with his sling loaded with hard cheese while she is bathing in Lough Ree in the Shannon, Co. Roscommon; this avenged Medb’s murder of Clothra, Medb’s sister and Furbaide’s mother! The second legend refers to the Cailleach Béara who dropped stones out of her apron as she flew over the hill. We also bumped into her on Slieve Gullion, County Armagh a few weeks back!
It was a short stop here as I had to make it to the most northerly point of Roscommon, a place wedged in between Sligo and Leitrim for the next County High Point – Seltannasaggart (428 metres), hike it and get back to Dr Hyde Park for the Connacht Final at 1.30pm! The fog was as thick as ever when I came down from Corn Hill and the roads were windy and narrow. At least they were traffic free!
A foggy North Roscommon and Lovely Leitrim is a hard place to eke a living in I’d say! Fields full of rushes, broken stone walls and plenty of rain means only the most resilient of folk can survive winters in these parts! Yet there is something mystical and other worldly about these sodden boggy uplands; ’tis no wonder Oweynagat (Cave of the Cats), Rathcroghan earned the title of the ‘Gate to Hell’ by our Celtic scribes or that tales of Queen Medbh and the epic Táin Bó Cuailnge are set in these eerie West of Ireland landscapes.
There was no break in the fog over in the county of the ‘Sheep Stealers’ and my walk uphill was mostly under a blank white cape of fog. I got the odd glimpse back towards beautiful Lough Allen and Sliabh an Iarainn on the opposite side. I’ve done some great cycling across this area in the past few years; it comes in under the radar for most people, but there are beautiful routes and some outstanding areas of natural beauty and of interest. The Roscommon High Point however is a nondescript pile of rocks, called Seltannasaggart set in the middle of a wind farm, with creepy pylons purring in the foggy dew. It’s only about a 5km out and back walk, though this morning I did little bit more as I couldn’t find the marker for a long time!
It was on to the Connacht Final then and a great win for St Brigid’s, who were by far the better team. I wasn’t surprised, having seen the Galway Final a short while ago – Corofin aren’t the team they were. The tackling by the Brigid’s defenders was really top class – touch tight, got out in front, got a hand in, Contested every high ball – and won them. Allied to that they had pace all over the park and a really good midfield pairing. All in all, another great day of football and hill walking!
